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Date: 08 Apr 96 13:19:59 EDT
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <thebucks@cycor.ca>, <ALPINES@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Alpine Stand
One "interesting" way to do it: in the April 1995 Practical and Classics,
there is an article about a guy who restored a Series V GT. He apparently
tipped the car on its side by lifting the empty body shell on to its side
with an engine hoist, and then rested it on carpet. There are even
pictures.
Jay Laifamn
FORWARDED MESSAGE from The Buckinghams (MAIL @ CSERVE
{INTERNET:thebucks@cycor.ca}) at 4/6/96 3:54p
TO: MAIL@CSERVE {INTERNET:ALPINES@AUTOX.TEAM.NET}
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Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 16:47:09 -0400
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: thebucks@cycor.ca (The Buckinghams)
Subject: Alpine Stand
I am looking to turn my car over for some major reconstruction of the
underbody and chassis. Does anyone have plans for the construction of a
stand or frame support which will allow me to do this with some relative
ease. The main concern that I have is the flexing of the body which will
cause some distortion of the lines when welding is finished and the car is
again upright.
I am also looking for a drivers window for my Series III.
This is a major reconstruction and any tips beside "DON'T" would be apprecia
ted.
Regards
Jim Buckingham
New Owner
***** NOTES from Jay Laifman (JLAIFMAN @ PNM) at 4/8/96 10:15a
ê Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 95 09:48 PDT
From: Frank_Marrone@optilink.optilink.dsccc.com
"MIG Welders" (Oct 18, 9:37am)
To: "Kurt J. Eckert" <eckerkj@vtxix.slg.eds.com>,
"alpines@autox.team.net
" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: MIG Welders
On Oct 18, 9:37am, Kurt J. Eckert wrote:
> Subject: MIG Welders
> I am looking at buying a MIG welder. The two models I am looking at are the
TiP
> MIG-130 and the Daytona MIG MIG-140 they are both advertised in Hemmings.
>
> The TiP model is 130 amp, 110 volt, and goes for $399.00. The Daytona MIG
> model is 140 amp, 115 volt and goes for $584.00.
>
I don't know of the brands you mentioned but I have an EL Cheapo 90 amp
no-name wire feeder and it is great! There were some inherent flaws in the
machinery that anyone with enough mechanical aptitude to keep an Alpine running
could deal with. The feed roller needed some modification to work smoothly and
I had to add a seal at the back of the lining to keep the shielding gas from
escaping out that end. I also added a fan to cool the rectifiers. I think
that in general the rectifiers are the weak link in the smaller machines. The
rectifiers tend to be under rated and under cooled, this is one of the main
factors in limiting the duty cycle on the small machines. I can weld 1/4 inch
plate and thin sheet metal with ease with my crappy little box.
I highly recommend a machine with a shielding gas capability. The flux core
wire will work OK but the welds are much easier to make pretty with the
shielding gas!
>Will they
> find me dead in my garage after I run 130-140 amps through myself or is that
> just enough to induce memory loss?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kurt Eckert
No, unless you have a very low body resistance you can not be electrocuted from
the outout of this type of welder. The arc voltage is something around 35
volts with a slightly higher open circuit voltage. The average human needs to
get across a higher voltage than that for enough current to flow to injure.
--
Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com
1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471116
1960 Sumbean Pintopine Series I B9009330
1966 Ford LTD 4-door family barge.
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From: nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 12:06:39 +0200
To: undisclosed-recipients:@autox.team.net;
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: "Bert Clewits" <nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl>
Subject: Alpine Stand
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim Buckingham wrote:
>I am looking to turn my car over for some major reconstruction of the
>underbody and chassis. Does anyone have plans for the construction of a
>stand or frame support which will allow me to do this with some relative
>ease. The main concern that I have is the flexing of the body which will
>cause some distortion of the lines when welding is finished and the car is
>again upright.
We've used a car tilting bridge to restore our Alpine IV GT with which
we are still busy at the moment.
(next friday it's going to the garage where we have assistance in removing
the nasty caliper bolt !)
The construction looks as follows:
It has two big halfmoon beams which can be connected with adaptors to
the wheels-drums, the wheels have to be removed one by one first.
(The adpators are needed for 4 nut- / five nut- Jaguar /three nut wheels
Citroen).
The beams are connected together with a stabilizer bar on the side of
the car.
On the otherside one has to remove a wheel as well for a spindle bar
and additional adaptor for that wheel.
On the bottom of that spindle bar are some small wheels and it has to
be connected with metal strips to the opposite halfmoon bar.
On top of the spindle bar is a small gearbox to which you can connect
your electril drill.
It all works fine, we tested the Jaguar XJ6 on it which is 1650 kg.
You have to fix the steering wheel into position with the steering
lock or tie a rope to it.
Also one has to remove the battery and put pieces of plastic under the
reservoir caps of oil/water/brake and clutch and remove all lose things
Welding on the car is easy and distorsion is minimal.
Regards, Bert
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Bert Clewits (Imp nut) G.P.Duuringlaan 40A |
| Sunbeam Alpine S IV GT '64 7339 BV Apeldoorn |
| Sunbeam Imp,Californian, The Netherlands |
| Chamois,Stiletto Tel: +31-55-5331601 |
| Philips Semiconductors Nijmegen NL nyclewit@nyhp03.serigate.philips.nl |
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
ÿ Received: by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
(1.37.109.16/15.5+ECS 3.3) id AA280554061; Tue, 17 Oct 1995 08:34:21 -0700
(1.37.109.16/15.5+IOS 3.22) id AA063744060; Tue, 17 Oct 1995 08:34:20 -0700
From: Roland Dudley <cobra@cdc.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Car Tilters
To: eckerkj@vtxix.slg.eds.com (Kurt J. Eckert)
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 95 8:34:20 PDT
>
> Has anyone purchased one of the car tilter rigs that allow you to tilt the
> car up to work on the bottom. I am interested in something along that line.
>
If you have welding equipment, you can build your own pretty cheaply.
See Tom Brownell's book HOW TO RESTORE YOUR COLLECTOR CAR. $20 from
Classic Autobooks or your local bookstore.
Roland
£ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 875654180.74760-1 ; Tue, 30 Sep 1997 21:16:20 +0000
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 14:15:27 -0700
From: CHUCK NICODEMUS <SEALMSTR@ICCOM.COM>
Organization: Armor Manufacturing
To: Jerome Yuzyk <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: A Car Dolly
Jerome,,, re your thread:
> How to Get Small/Portable Car Dolly
>
> Seeking recommendations on a small car dolly. I'm working in a tight
> shop where cars have to move around a bit and think that if I could put
> my car on castered wheels it would be a lot easier. I saw some that
> attached to wheel lugs but there must be something that supports the
> under-frame instead.
I just recieved a catalog that has in it a set of castered dollies 2 fer
70.00 US. it appears that you raise the car slip a dollie under the tire
and wallaa, you can move the car around the garage as you need. if you
wish as per my last thread about seats i'll send you the info.or better
yet the catalog is from "Harbor Freight' a US 800# is 423 2567web site
is " www.harborfreight.com "
chuck
z Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 18:29:25 -0800 (PST)
To: thebucks@cycor.ca (The Buckinghams)
From: marrone@wco.com (Frank Marrone)
Subject: Re: Alpine Stand
>I am looking to turn my car over for some major reconstruction of the
>underbody and chassis. Does anyone have plans for the construction of a
>stand or frame support which will allow me to do this with some relative
>ease. The main concern that I have is the flexing of the body which will
>cause some distortion of the lines when welding is finished and the car is
>again upright.
When I went to the Tiger get together in Grants Pass, OR. a couple of years
back, there was a guy there with a nice Tiger he had done a total
restoration on. In talking with him I learned that he had used such a
device in the restoration. He used two heavy duty engine stands with
adaptors to bolt to the Tiger bumper mounting points. The adaptors were
installed in place of the engine mounting heads. He tied the center legs of
the stands together so the two stands could not squirt out from under the
car. He said it worked pretty good. He had a photograoh book showing some
of the restoration process and in there I saw the shell at a few different
angles up on the stands.
Neil, a bodyman in town here in Geyserville, has some engine stands he has
used for the same purpose but not on Alpines or Tigers.
I don't know if body flex woild be a problem with this method. I'd be
interested to hear what you finally come up with and how it works out for you.
Frank Marrone MK I Tiger B9471116
marrone@wco.com 1966 LTD
Series I Alpine (2.3L powered by Ford)
Yamaha Seca 900 (new arrival)
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From: BNCorrigan@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:15:15 -0400
To: thebucks@cycor.ca
Subject: Alpine stand
There is an excellent book out which covers all aspects of auto restoration
including the fabrication of an inexpensive frame tilter which uses five
discarded rims - four mounted to the car, one cut into half circles which are
welded to the rims on the side of the car which is going to be on the ground.
Two long levers/stabilizers are then welded onto these half rims. On the
other side of the car( the side in the air) a length of angle Iron is welded
between the two rims and a sling or hoist is affixed for additional safety.
You will need a welder, or at least acces to one. The book is called "How
to restore your collector car" by Tom Brownwell for $19.95 by Motor books
International of Osceloa, Wisconsin 1-800-826-6600. (book No. 107702AP)
This book is money well spent. It also covers inexpensive methods to
remove rust and make your own parts cleaning/stripping tank with a cheapo
cleaning solution.
The frame tilter is set up for bolt on wheels, but the design can easily
beadapted for wire wheels. If your chasis is really rotten and you are
cutting out the sills, this might be a better design than the rotisserie
design thats been mentioned, because it won't allow the car to bend or flex
under its own weight. Chris Happy/Strange doesn't think this will be a
problem though.
I can fax you a copy of the relevant pages from the book if you need them.
Let us know how you make out, I have the same road to travel and would be
very interested in your project.
Good luck.
Brian Corrigan
72 MGB-GT 67 Alpine MkV project car
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Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 12:55:54 EDT
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: Brian Kiviat <kiviat@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
Subject: Alpine Stand
I visited a friend last weekend who has his car on a rotiserie. He is
slipping a small block Chevy 327 into a 240Z. He is replacing nearly all
the frame rails and floor with heavier guage steel to handle the torque. To
do this, he has removed everything from the car....the frame and most of the
body shell is all that is left. No engine, doors, interior, seats,
suspension, hood, rear fenders (rust removed much of them), etc. What is
left weighs about 4-5 hundred pounds. He built dual A-Frame supports from
2X4's and engine stands which bolt to the front and rear of the car. He
estimated the center of gravity and lined up the pivot points there.
Rotating the car is a one man operation. Due to the reduced weight of the
car, he is not too worried about frame flex while on the
"spit".............If the interest is there, I'll get either more details
from him or he OK's it................give his e-mail address to any
interested parties.
Brian Kiviat
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Date: 10 Apr 96 20:00:48 EDT
From: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
To: <BNCorrigan@aol.com>, <THEBUCKS@cycor.ca>
Subject: RE: Alpine stand
The factory used a rotating stand in the production process. You can
find pictures of it on page 43 of the book "Alpine: The Classic Sunbeam" by
Chris McGovern. On Page 45 there are pictures of the car being suspended
the stand - probably because the angle of them is such that
if you turned the car over, the car might slip out and fall down). With a
magnifying glass you may be able to see where the stand attaches. From
what I can see and hypothesize, it looks like they get attached at the
front at the cross member mounting points and at the rear at the rear
suspension mounting points - but I cannot tell for certain.
Jay S. Laifman
Pircher, Nichols & Meeks
1999 Avenue of the Stars
Los Angeles, California 90067
(310) 201-8915
L Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 21:52:35 -0700 (PDT)
To: Jay Laifman <JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com>
From: marrone@wco.com (Frank Marrone)
Subject: RE: Alpine stand
>The factory used a rotating stand in the production process. You can
>find pictures of it on page 43 of the book "Alpine: The Classic Sunbeam" by
>Chris McGovern.
There are also some good pictures of these on page 21 of Taylors Tiger book.
Those stands look pretty heavy duty!!
Frank Marrone MK I Tiger B9471116
marrone@wco.com 1966 LTD
Series I Alpine (2.3L powered by Ford)
Yamaha Seca 900
H Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: BNCorrigan@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 13:18:15 -0400
To: thebucks@cycor.ca
Subject: Re: Alpine Stand
There is an excellent book out which covers all aspects of auto restoration
including the fabrication of an inexpensive frame tilter which uses five
discarded rims and some angle iron. You will need a welder or at least
access to one. The Book is called "How to restore your collector car" by
Tom Brownwell for $19.95 by Motorbooks International of Osceola, Wisconsin.
This book is money well spent. It also covers inexpensive methods to remove
rust and make your own parts cleaning tank with cheapo cleaning solution.
The tilter is set up for bolt on wheels, but the design can be easily adapted
the sills, this might be a better design than the rotissere design thats been
mentioned, because it won't allow the car to bend or flex under its own
weight. Chris Happy/Strange doesn't think this will be a problem though.
I can fax you a copy of the relevant pages from the book if you need them.
Let us know how you make out, I have the same road to travel and would be
very interested in your project.
Good luck.
Brian Corrigan
72 MGB-GT 67 Alpine MkV project car
d Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:39:00 -0700
From: Jarrid Gross <GROSS@unit.com>
Subject: RE: Vacuum bleeding
To: "'alpine clan'" <alpines@autox.team.net>, LeBrun <LeBrun@hii.hitachi.com>,
Tiger Clan <tigers@autox.team.net>
>From: LeBrun
>To: Jarrid Gross
>Subject: Re[2]: Vacuum bleeding
>Date: Tuesday, July 30, 1996 1:25PM
>
> Jarrid;
>
> -Can you post the p/n's?
>
>
> Phil
I purchased the brake bleeding kit from THE AUTO PARTS CLUB, which is a
warehouse type auto parts store in Southern California. Ive seen the same
kit at places like Chief and Trak and other similar places for slightly
more.
The kit consists of the following...
Hand vacuum pump with 0-760 mm Hg 0-30" Hg "Scale is backwards!"
2 vacuum lines "one = pump to the reservoir, the other = to the
bleeder".
Fluid reservoir.
Various adapters for bleed screws of different sizes.
Tube of Glycol compatible sealing grease "for bleeding screw"
Various other adapters for testing emmisions equipment. "Handy!"
The whole thing cost $30 to $40.
Like I said before I feel its the best way to do a real one man/woman brake
bleed.
Ive purchased other "one person" bleed kits using one way valves ect...
Dont waste your money. You never get all the bubbles out.
Ive also seen pressurized bleeders. This looks like a nice way to bleed,
but I have other vehicles with plastic fluid tanks that wont tolerate that
kind of abuse so I never bought one
Jarrid Gross
SII Alpine EFI
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Date: Sat, 1 Nov 1997 12:27:31 -0600 (CST)
From: z600guru@ix.netcom.com (Miles)
Subject: Re: Solvents
To: alpines@autox.team.net
You wrote:
>Does anyone know of a good solvent/cleaning solution to use in my new
=
>parts washer? I would like for it to be pretty strong (i.e. good at =
>cutting grease and/or paint) but without too much odor (its being used
=
>in an attached garage and my wife doesn't love the smell of solvent).
>
>
>******I use a cleaning solvent called "Oil Eater". I called the
company and asked them if I could use it in my parts washer, the said
OK. They gave me the mixing ratio as 100% would be too expensive. Oil
Eater is sold at Costco (PriceCostco) for about $6.00/gallon. Castrol
makes a similar product. Both wash off in water and both are
biodegradable - your wife should appreciate that! Right now the Oil
Eater offers a $3.00/gallon rebate, so if you bought 4 you'd get a
great deal.
I restore cars and this stuff works really well.
Miles Chappell
Felton CA
z600guru@ix.netcom.com
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From: Jimdamelio@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 1997 19:16:19 -0500 (EST)
To: alcon@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: The worst job in restoration
In a message dated 97-11-23 02:11:56 EST, you write:
<<
I gotta see this!! Do you have diagrams and such that you could sent out
over the internet or even include in a Tiger Tails bulletin??
>>
Allen,
I don't have any drawings and don't even have the pieces here to measure.
My friends using them now for his Alpine. He lives 100 miles away.
I'll ask him to take some dimensions.
I failed to mention that the cars center section has to be solid or the car
might sag. Mine was ok. Some people build braces and weld them inside
the car to keep it true while its on the stand.
Starting at the scrapyard I purchased about 8' of 3 x 2 steel tubing with a
1/4" wall thickness, 8' of 3 x 2 x 1/4 steel angle and 4 pieces of 3/4"
square bar about 18" long.
At the rear of the car I slid the sq bar into the jacking points until they
bottomed out, then backed them out about an inch. Didn't want them to get
jammed in.
Holding the tubing up to the sq bar so that it extended about 4" past each
one, marking it to cut the lenght and the location of the holes needed for
the bars to pass thru it.
Using a torch I cut the tubing to the proper lenght and burned the holes
needed for the sq bar.
With the sq bar still in the jacking points, I slid the bars into and thru
the
tubing. Positioning the tubing about 4" away from the car, I welded the bars
to the tubing, both holes front and back, keeping the tubing at a 90 degree
to the floor. Then cutting off any excess bar sticking out the back of the
tubing.
The assy can now be removed from the car.
The tubing and bar probably would be strong enough to hold the car, but
the tubing doesn't have enough surface area to attach the engine stand plate
properly. So untop of the tubing I welded the 3 x 2 angle bar.
Resting the assy on several cinderblocks with the sq bars pointing down,
I centered the engine stand plate onto the tubing and angle and marked
the best position to drill holes for the bolts. Using a hand drill and a good
bit I drilled 8 holes. On the tubing the holes have to go thru both walls.
Tough job to get them straight, I bent the bit. Would be easier to use a
drill press or have a shop drill them.
Attached everything with grade 8 bolts using several washers to take up the
extra lenght of the bolts.
The rear assy was done!
The front wasn't as easy. Started off the same way, I inserted the sq bar
into
the jacking points, but this time they didn't go in straight, but at an
inward
angle. Positioned the tubing in the same manner, I marked the cuts, burned
and welded.
Because of the inward angle of the jacking points the assy could not be
removed from the car! It would have made a much stronger replacement
To do this I used an air powered reciprocating saw with a good quaility
blade. Once it was removed I welded angle bar to each half and drilled
the holes.
It was finished.
The best engine stands to use are the ones that are at a 90 degree angle.
Some of them lean back a little which makes turning the car a little
harder.
One added safety feature I used was to take a lenght of top rail pipe from a
chainlink fence and slid it into the front leg of one stand and then into the
leg of the other one. Then drilling a hole all the way thru the leg and the
pipe and inserting a bolt as a pin. This ties the two stands together and
keeps them from collapsing. It also makes it possible to move the car
around on the stands if you have a smooth surface.
That about sums it up, if you have any questions just ask.
Jim
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 915946143.506668-1 ; Sun, 10 Jan 1999 05:29:03 +0000
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 22:07:37 +0000
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
To: Irwin J Kostal <bigfoot@idt.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny
<3698634D.9DF2ABCB@earthlink.net> <3697333A.B857F77A@wisemaninsurance.com> <r/5l2I25mSWW092yn@supernet.ab.ca> <3697E3E1.68F6A5A9@idt.net>
Irwin J Kostal wrote:
snip
> My project for this month, then, is to empty as much "stuff" from the
> garage as possible. I've offered for sale a set of dining room chairs
> that are taking space, a freezer, and some Sony speakers, so if anyone
> is interested, give me a call - special consideration given to listers
> :) Then I'm going to create shelf space and work surfaces for myself,
> and start buying tools. One thing I'm interested in is an engine hoist.
> I've heard of one which can be disassembled and stored compactly away
> when not in use. Does anyone have a brand name that I can look for, or
> any other advice about picking one up? It seems impractical to rent
> every time I need one, since I then also have to rent a truck to pull
> the damned thing, and it seems I might as well spend the money once and
> get it over with.
>
> Any comments will be read with great interest.
>
> Irv Kostal
Irv,
You might want to search the archives of Shop-talk @
http://listquest.com,
go to Hobbies, then to Cars, then to shop-talk.
Search on engine hoists and whatever else hits your fancy. There seems to be a thread on
engine hoists pretty frequently. maybe once a month, so there is plenty to read. Some of
the thoughts expressed are: 1) most people seem to buy theirs from Harbor Freight or
Price /Sams / Costco stores. 2) Folding hoists seem to be the favorite (helps to conserve
shop space, sound familiar?). 3) The rent vs buy discussion is sometimes lively with
buying seeming to be the more popular option. 4) the load leveling bracket is highly
recommended.
Sounds as if you are setting up shop. Let me offer some thoughts on a shop:
1. Space is a precious resource. A car disassembled (in whole or part) takes up surprising
area. The more that you can clean up, the better.
2. Work benches. The more the better. Might want to search on the list noted above on
work benches. Seems that I often (ususually) have more than one project going on at one
time and it is nice to be able to ample work bench space.
3. Good lighting make working much more enjoyable. In addition to adding more flourescent
lighting I have purchases a couple of swing lamps (like the kind that clamp to a drafting
table) from Home Depot for about $10.00 each. Screws the mounting bracket to the wall
above the benches. Makes a big difference.
4. A few things that make my shop a little bit more convienent are: a wall mounted roll
of paper towels. A pump bottle of hand cleaner above the bench. Music source. A box of
latex gloves (surprisingly useful). A handy supply of plastic bags (like ziplock).
5. If you get into this in a big way, a parts washer station (doesn't need to be fancy) is
nice. Living in Southern Cal, I have mine outside.
6. A grinder setup with a wire wheel on one side, a polishing "disk" on the other (with a
selection of compunds) comes in very handy when restoring.
Good luck, have fun !
-Roger
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From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Tool kits
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1992 09:15:53 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Jerome: Please do post my tool kit picture in your web site. The tools left
to right below the pouch are:
4 pc open end wrench set, Screwdriver, King Dick Wrench, Spark Plug Removal
Tool and Handle, Small Hubcap Nave (also came in larger version), Lucas
Distributer Tool (Point gauge and screwdriver) Tire valve adjustment tool
(yellow color), Pliers and Feeler Gauge Set (plugs, valves)
Also not included in the photo are the hand crank , jack and lugwrench.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerome Yuzyk <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
To: herbeam@cari.net <herbeam@cari.net>
Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: Tool kits
>"herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net> wrote:
>> I have no description from Rootes about the tools...might be in the
Series
>> III manual I gave to Kurt. The car did come with a jack also...I have a
>> crank too but it didn't come in the III.
>
>If it's OK with you I'd like to include this image on my site in Guides:
>Special Tools, with an email-link credit to you and a list of what
>everything is.
>
>--
>
>- J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca -
>- BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge -
>- Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam -
>- I'm going to SUNI III... Are You? | www.newsource.net/suni3 -
>
>
“ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in6.ibm.net id 916976765.83736-1 ; Fri, 22 Jan 1999 03:46:05 +0000
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 20:47:36 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 20:08:05 +0000
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
To: Andy Boetticher <aboetticher@api.com>
Subject: Re: Non Alpine Related - Air Compressors
Andy,
A few suggesstions:
1. The one important spec is air flow at a specific pressure (OK, that's TWO spec's in
one). Mine reads 5.8 scfm @ 90 psi. Ignore the hp ratings, they are very nearly
meaningless on most air compressors.
2. "Oil-less" a/c are quite noisy and will not last nearly as long as a more
conventional iron compressor with oil bath. But they do produce more cfm for a given
purchase price and they are easily and inexpensively rebuilt. Me ? I don't like the
noise.
3. Determine your needs for air flow. I would rate common tools as follows:
Impact wrenchs: low air flow requirements. They don't draw all that much air and you
don't use them continuously. Include butterfly and ratchet impact wrenchs in this
category.
Air chisels: same as above
Paint guns, depends on the model, use moderate to large air flow. Unlike wrenchs these
tend to get used for longer continuous time periods.
Die grinders, air sanders: use moderate to large air flow rates. Sometimes the
application is for a quick use, sometimes for a longer period.
Sand blasters: use a LOT of air. Even the small ones. If the job is small you can wait
small compressor for blasting means that the compressor heats up , this means more
moisture in the air and you don't want wet blasting media.
I hope this helps, it is a very useful addition to a shop.
-Roger
Andy Boetticher wrote:
>
> As the Alpine project progresses, its becoming more and more
> apparent that the home shop is in need of an air compressor.
> >From what I've been able to figure out, the critical specs are
> HP, volume, pressure, and flow. I was wondering if there are any
> recommendations out there as to what a good combination of the
> four would be and/or specific models that would be worth looking
> at. I'm looking for a decent unit that can handle most hand held
> pneumatic tools (and possibly a small sand blasting setup) but
> won't deplete the Alpine budget in the process.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Andy Boetticher
> Series IV
E Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 917017705.703664-1 ; Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:08:25 +0000
Fri, 22 Jan 1999 08:10:07 -0700 (MST)
From: "Dobrowski, Robert S" <Robert.Dobrowski@JSF.Boeing.com>
To: Andy Boetticher <aboetticher@api.com>,
"'Roger Gibbs'"
<rgibbs@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: Non Alpine Related - Air Compressors
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 07:07:53 -0800
Roger, Andy, Fellow listers
I have to agree with the statement on SCFM at pressure, HP ratings are
meaningless.
My compressor is rated at 12 SCFM @ 100 psi and is very marginal for sand
blasting (I admit I have a large blast cabinet but the small ones just
aren't worth the effort). Buy the highest SCFM rating you can afford.
Someone had previously commented on small portable air compressors vs large
stationary compressors and sounded like they preferred the small ones.
Having owned both types I have found that a stationary one is more
conveinient. The portable ones always seem to be in the way and you must
have an electrical outlet near were you want to use them. With a stationary
air compressor you can locate it out of the way and it is cheap and easy to
run a hard line around your shop with quick disconnects every 10 feet so
that air is always available where you need it. If you need to do
sandblasting out behind the shop, air hoses are very affordable way to
extend your reach.
Just my opinion.
Bob
> ----------
> From: Roger Gibbs[SMTP:rgibbs@pacbell.net]
> Reply To: Roger Gibbs
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 1999 12:08 PM
> To: Andy Boetticher
> Cc: Alpines
> Subject: Re: Non Alpine Related - Air Compressors
>
> Andy,
>
> A few suggesstions:
>
> 1. The one important spec is air flow at a specific pressure (OK, that's
> TWO spec's in
> one). Mine reads 5.8 scfm @ 90 psi. Ignore the hp ratings, they are very
> nearly
> meaningless on most air compressors.
>
> 2. "Oil-less" a/c are quite noisy and will not last nearly as long as a
> more
> conventional iron compressor with oil bath. But they do produce more cfm
> for a given
> purchase price and they are easily and inexpensively rebuilt. Me ? I
> don't like the
> noise.
>
> 3. Determine your needs for air flow. I would rate common tools as
> follows:
>
> Impact wrenchs: low air flow requirements. They don't draw all that much
> air and you
> don't use them continuously. Include butterfly and ratchet impact wrenchs
> in this
> category.
>
> Air chisels: same as above
>
> Paint guns, depends on the model, use moderate to large air flow. Unlike
> wrenchs these
> tend to get used for longer continuous time periods.
>
> Die grinders, air sanders: use moderate to large air flow rates.
> Sometimes the
> application is for a quick use, sometimes for a longer period.
>
> Sand blasters: use a LOT of air. Even the small ones. If the job is
> small you can wait
> for the compressor to catch up. If not, this gets frustrating quickly.
> Also, using a
> small compressor for blasting means that the compressor heats up , this
> means more
> moisture in the air and you don't want wet blasting media.
>
> I hope this helps, it is a very useful addition to a shop.
>
> -Roger
>
>
>
> Andy Boetticher wrote:
> >
> > As the Alpine project progresses, its becoming more and more
> > apparent that the home shop is in need of an air compressor.
> > >From what I've been able to figure out, the critical specs are
> > HP, volume, pressure, and flow. I was wondering if there are any
> > recommendations out there as to what a good combination of the
> > four would be and/or specific models that would be worth looking
> > at. I'm looking for a decent unit that can handle most hand held
> > pneumatic tools (and possibly a small sand blasting setup) but
> > won't deplete the Alpine budget in the process.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > Andy Boetticher
> > Series IV
>
e
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 921602610.158992-1 ; Tue, 16 Mar 1999 16:43:30 +0000
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 09:37:47 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 09:40:28 -0600
From: Ron Tebo <tebomr@cadvision.com>
To: RobCarpent@aol.com
Subject: Welding Processes
RobCarpent@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/15/99 5:26:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> tebomr@cadvision.com writes:
>
> << Porosity is also often a problem with aluminum welding, especially if it
> was done with mig rather than tig welding. >>
>
> What is "mig" and "tig" ?
>
> Rob Carpenter
Rob:
These terms are weldors jargon, and MIG stands for "Metallic Inert Gas" welding
and involves using a machine which feeds
continuous filler wire into the weld area where the arc is shielded by an inert
gas mixture (also more recently known as GMAW).
TIG stands for "Tungsten Inert Gas" welding (also GTAW), and involves using an
air or water cooled non-consumable tungsten electrode which provides the
welding heat and is shielded by an inert gas mixture, while filler rod is fed
in by the operator.
The term "heli-arc" isn't really specific enough to be useful to a weldor since
all it refers to is the presence of helium in the shielding gas in either
process (helium is used in welding copper, nickel-alloy and other reactive
metals, as well as aluminum and is also mixed with CO2 and argon for
high-strength steel).
The TIG process will usually produce a superior weld on aluminum in the hands
of a skilled operator, while the MIG process is faster, cheaper and requires
less skill (also much cheaper machine). For welding a cylnder head, the TIG
process would be the way to go because of better heat control (the arc can be
controlled in mid-weld by a foot-pedal) and more precise welding ( it happens
more slowly and voids and porosity are easier to detect).
Hope this helps -ask if it doesn't!
Ron Tebo
Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in6.prserv.net id 941466065.94096-1 ; Mon, 01 Nov 1999 14:21:05 +0000
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 07:16:38 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 08:33:17
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: "Lawrence E. & Cathy R. Mayfield" <lemay@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Studs 'n Hubs
I always cringe when I see notes about putting a large puller on the hub
and then whacking it to remove the hub. Blows that are sufficient enough to
deform the axle stub. An unseen danger is brinneling of the bearings
(Ithink I spelled it right). When you whack that gear puller it transmits
it load to the axle and then to the bearing. This damages the bearing!
While the damage may not be immediately apparent, failure will follow down
the road sometime.
So what's a mother to do, you ask. Well, build yourself the proper puller.
I used four pieces of 1 inch diameter cold rolled bar stock, drilled them
through on a lathe and threaded all the way through. I think the pieces are
about 1.5 inches long. Now you need a substantial piece of metal, I used a
piece of aluminum, about 1 inch thick and large enough, approximately 5 x 5
inches, to accomodate the four lugs' spacing. I drilled the plate with 7/16
oversize drill at each corner. I then purchased four grade 8 (grade 5 will
probably do) bolts of sufficient length to go through the thick plate and
screw onto drilled and tapped bar stock. I them remove the axle nut and the
washer that fits under it. I then reinstall the nut backwards on the axle
without the washer, screwing it down flush with the axle end. This will
leave a little space between the nut and hub. Now screw the bar stock
pieces onto the wheel studs until they are about haly way engaged. If you
have a piece of scarificial aluminum bout 1/8 inch thich, put it between
the nut and puller. Now tighten all of the grade 8 bilts evenly preferably
using a torque wrench. Mine hubs usually pop off at something less than 40
ft-lbs. No whacking required. No hidden bearing damage. And it is safe
because the hub is still captured by the nut.
I believe I have even used this on splined hubs using appropriate spacers
and longer grade 8 bolts.
If I can find a digital camera, I'll take a picture and put it on my web site.
mayf
L.E. Mayfield
124 Maximillion Drive
Madison, Al. 35758-8171
1-256-837-1051
old >>>>>>>> http://www.hsv.tis.net/~mayfield
new >>>>>>>> http://home.hiwaay.net/~lemayf
DrMayf@AOL.com
lemay@hiwaay.net <<<<preferred
Sunbeam Tiger, B9471136
Sunbeam Alpine Bonneville Land Speed Racer,
'66 Hydroplane Drag Boat (390 FE)
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