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ô Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 875211894.71878-1 ; Thu, 25 Sep 1997 18:24:54 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: SII OD
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 11:21:00 -0700
----------
From: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
To: GROSS@UNIT.COM
Subject: Re: SII OD
Date: Thursday, September 25, 1997 11:31AM
>Never any problems with this. A local SI owner is amazed that I run
about
>30 @ idle and 45 cruising, and (gauge-wise) so cool (about 140
cruising).
Then your motor is quite fresh, and I would recommend that if
you have the cartridge "teclamite" filter, you remove it, base
adapter and all, and buy the new type that is fitted to the
SII,IV and V motors. It is available from sunbeam specialties
This will give you easier oil changes, plus uses the safer
type relief valve, that tends not to stick like the older ones.
You will also recieve about 55 PSI pressure.
>I don't really consume any, just leaking from the front and rear seals
>I think.
This is normal.
>I don't know what shape the 1725 is in, but it did run before being
>rear-ended. I have the luxury of a (quite well-) working car for now,
>this engine, and another 1725 motor.
I would take my time, and build up the 1725 motor, good and proper.
Maybe even put a little extra umph in it too.
The motor that you have sounds to be in better shape than
many fresh rebuilds, and with the exception of the spark and
carbs, the motor will give you no grief for some time.
Pay close attention to the distributor "go to electronic if possible",
and do a quatlity rebuild on the carbs.
Have the shafts rebushed too if you can afford it.
This will raise the reliability factor to a point where you might
consider longer and more frequent drives.
Jarrid
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: SII OD
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 07:42:00 -0700
jerome@supernet.ab.ca
>> You will also recieve about 55 PSI pressure.
>I have an adapter, and use a Fram PH-8A (tall-ish) filter, only a week
>old. Same pressure (45-ish tops) as before. Larger filter -> Lower
pressure?
Perhaps you have the old type "with spin on filter"?
Is it a new one "from SS"?
Rootes changes the relief valve design, in 68, and the new
design is not comaptibe with the old type adapter.
>Funny you should mention that. Was talking about what it would take
only
>an hour ago, and it seems there are a number of things I could do
myself
>without getting into big $$$, so I think I will. And on that topic
then,
>what would be a good way to get myself educated? I'm a read-first kind
>of guy. Would the Series II Tuning and Performance book do me any good?
>I saved the List thread where someone else asked about tuning a 1725,
>but everything at that time looked pretty greek (until this afternoon).
The alpine motor is pretty simple. Tough to mess up if you are
tanacious to detail.
Use the list as a bouncing board if in doubt.
Get your agenda straight before you begin.
Stick to the plan.
>> Pay close attention to the distributor "go to electronic if
possible",
>> and do a quatlity rebuild on the carbs.
>> Have the shafts rebushed too if you can afford it.
>
>I've seen one advertised (Pertronics) that hides under the cap, so
appeals
>to my mostly-original intentions.
The pertronics system is fine, and is the only one that is hidden
inside the cap.
What I meant though is to verify that the timing has the proper
advance, and that the dwell and timing isnt jumpy.
If it is, the distributor needs rebushed.
Points would be fine with a fresh bushes.
If you need help, just drop a line.
Jarrid Gross
y Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: jarrid_gross@juno.com
To: paul.heuer@dsto.defence.gov.au
Subject: Re: thrust washers (was clutch in -> rev
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 13:58:05 EDT
Paul,
>The car is doing a rather good impersonation of the Exxon Valdez at
>the
>moment, so there may be a new sump gasket in its future anyway - a
>perfect
>time to replace the thrust washers.
It is doubtfull that the sump is contributing too much to your oil slick.
But rather the side cover panel, and the timing cover gasket and the
harmonic balance scroll.
It is a common mistake when building an alpine motor not to use
thread sealer on the side cover bolts. All the bolts that go into the
head go directly into the oily engine cavity. The result is an engine
that just weeps oil, and it looks like it comes from the sump.
The alpine has no front or rear seals, so an engine that does'nt
lay down at least a little oil is very rare.
Jarrid Gross
Â
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From: "Richard Atherton (Entex)" <a-richat@MICROSOFT.com>
To: "'jewett@sierra.net'" <jewett@sierra.net>,
"'DSand95510@aol.com'"
<DSand95510@aol.com>
Subject: RE: Alpine Heads
Date: Mon, 20 May 1996 21:10:18 -0700
Hey Dick, I know it's been a long time since I owned an Alpine, but I
remember that my little 1592 in my series IV had tube inserts in the
spark plug holes. They didn't seal real well, and would eventually fill
about half way up with oil. I remember this because I had to keep these
clean otherwise it would drown the plug in oil, usually fowling the boot
and the conection, and just generally made a hell of a mess. Mine was
definitely the 1592 as the car was original when we got it, plus I had
seen the others when "boneyarding" for parts.
Am I just completely screwed up, or am I channeling for a series V
owner !!!
Rich (former Pacific Tiger Club member)....And I still have the unused
window sticker from 1977-78 !!
>----------
>From: DSand95510@aol.com[SMTP:DSand95510@aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, May 20, 1996 6:56 PM
>To: jewett@sierra.net
>Cc: alpines@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Alpine Heads
>
>In a message dated 96-05-20 19:36:23 EDT, you write:
>
>> What are the diferences
>>between the V heads, and the earlier heads. I have two, one has tubes
>>around the plugs, and the other doesn't, I am assuming the one with tubes
>>is a V head. Is there any other difference?
>
>The one without "tubes" is probably from a very late Series V. I
>assume the
>one without tubes has more of a pocket-shaped recess around the plugs.
>
>The valves are slightly smaller on the 1592 head. There should also be
>a
>water fitting at the back end of the the 1592 head. A pipe connects
>this to
>the dual Zenith manifold. On the 1725cc the water fitting is blanked
>off or
>plugged.
>
>A few part numbers you may find stamped on the heads:
>
>1592cc: 5220474 or 5220609 or 5220806
>
>1725cc: 5220955 or 5220968
>
>
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From: tjhiggin@alpine.b17a.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins)
Subject: Re: Alpine Oil Pressure
To: alpines@autox.team.net (Alpines)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 97 7:52:25 CST
DSand95510@aol.com writes:
> P.S. Rootes put out a Service Bulletin early in the Series V run advising
> dealers to replace the PRV, as it was prone to sticking open even when new.
> I 'believe' the bulletin recommended going back to the earlier valve number,
> found on Series I-IV, which take longer to wear out. Can anyone confirm
> this?
Dick, you are correct on all counts. This bulletin is on the web at
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/rsb/66_06.html and recommends that the
1600cc relief valve be used on the 1725 engine.
--
T.J. Higgins
tjhiggin@ingr.com
Huntsville, AL
B Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 877543611.465040-1 ; Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:06:51 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpine list <alpines@autox.team.net>, Ray Frazier <ray@why.net>
Subject: RE: Bad motor
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 08:10:00 -0700
----------
From: Ray Frazier
To: alpine list
Subject: Bad motor
Date: Tuesday, October 21, 1997 5:29PM
>As I was driving to a rally last Saturday in my S3 it made a really bad
noise. the >noise was a deep clunking noise that got considerably
better when the clutch was >engaged. I stopped immediately and called
the tow truck. being an eternal >optimist(I have to be with three MGs
and an Alpine) I thought it was probably the >clutch coming apart or
maybe a transmission problem. When I got a chance to >inspect it when I
got home however it sounded more like I had thrown a rod so I >pulled
off the oil pan and looked around. at first I didn't see anything but
then I spied >some metal bits around the no. 4 crank journal. I pulled
off the bearing cap >expecting to see a spun bearing but there was only
minor scoring on the bearing >surface. I then looked up at the journal
and was shocked at what I saw. there was a >crack all the way through
the crank. apparently the crack was jagged enough that >the crank was
operating as a unit so the engine would still run.
>
> Also while I have this motor apart what would be some engine mods
that I could >do to it to give me a little more horsepower. this car is
a driver so I don't want to do >anything too radical, just give it a
little more pep. The car seems to be pretty much >stock except for it
having the twin sidedraft stombergs of the later series cars.
>any advice on pitfalls to look out for would also be appreciated as I
have only had >the car a couple of months and will be trying to make
sure everything is up to spec. >inside.
Well, this is the way many of our engines will end up in the long run.
A small stress riser that exists on the crank, will form a crack that
will
propogate aross the part eventually.
You may well have had the crack for 20 years, and it just let go.
Getting a new crank shouldnt be too tough. Try the parts guys.
Curt?
They seem to keep used parts too.
The 3 main motor IMO requires a little more magic than does
the 5 main motor, this is to assure that the motor will last
longer than the old one did.
Get one that has a maximum of .020 undercut on both rod
and main journals, as the journals size contributes considerably
to the strength of the crank. That is, select one that will allow
a max of .030 regrind.
When you get your new crank, have it cleaned and magnafluxed.
If it passes have the webs shot peened.
The shot peening relieves surface stress risers, and puts the whole
cranks skin in compressive stress.
This will prevent something on the outside like a scratch or an
imperfection in the die from propogating through the crank.
Have the crank balanced, and match piston and rod weights
to assure that the reciprocating parts are also balanced.
I know this sounds an awfull lot like a race motor, but these
opperations are relatively inexpensive and are a cheap
insurance policy toward keeping the motor together.
Cam and compression are easy ways to bump performance on a rebuild.
I would put in a milled down series V head on the early car.
Why?
The series V head has better ports and bigger valves than all other
models.
Also there are a bunch of corroded heads around, that could be cleaned
up without welding by taking a good swath across the face.
Cheap performance.
Jarrid Gross
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From: tjhiggin@alpine.b17a.ingr.com (T.J. Higgins)
Subject: Re: chevy rods for alpine engine
To: GROSS@unit.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 10:40:00 CDT
Jarrid Gross writes:
> Here tell there are people out there who know how to graft forged
> small block chevy con rods to the alpine motor. Any ideas????????
[The following article is reprinted without permission from Rocky Mountain
Vintage Racing Ltd newsletter, date unknown. Thanks to Kirk Buecher
(kirkb@gr.hp.com) for sending it to me. I'll be adding it to the Alpine
tech tips web page. --TJH]
TECH TALK
Sunbeam 1725cc Engine Mods for Reliability
The four cylinder Sunbeam engines are a nice design with their 8 port
aluminum head and high intake ports. Unfortunately, these engines are
prone to failure of number 2 or 3 rod bearing even when used on the street.
This article will outline some modifications that have resulted in reliable
race engines when operated up to 8000 RPM.
The key to a reliable engine is the installation of 350 CI Chevrolet
connecting rods. The Chevy rods are .075 inch longer than the Sunbeam rod
and may be used with slightly modified stock Sunbeam pistons. The steps
required to use the Chevy rods are:
1. Obtain 4 matched 350 rods with 3/8 inch bolts.
2. V8 rods have one side of their big end machined off so that they are
narrower than the sunbeam's one inch. With the cap bolted to the rod,
have the cut off side heli-arced with bronze to a height greater than one
inch. The bronze doesn't need to be very uniform and it is best not to
braze across the parting line between the rod and cap.
3. Using a stationary belt sander remove the minimum amount of metal
parallel to the rod bolts so that the Chevy rods will fit in the Sunbeam
cylinders. Don't remove any more material than is required to get the
rods through the Sunbeam cylinder, so if the engine is to be rebored take
this into account.
4. Have the bronze surfaced by an automotive machine shop to give .010
inch side clearance on the Sunbeam crank.
5. The wrist pin hole needs to be honed approximately .030 inch to float
the Sunbeam wrist pins in the Chevy rods. The clearance should be .0005
inch and an oiling hole should be drilled to oil the wrist pin like on the
Sunbeam rod.
6. Install new rod bolts and recondition the big ends of the Chevy rods.
7. Balance and glass bead the rods.
8. Grind the rod journals on the Sunbeam crank to 2.100 inch to provide
.002 inch bearing clearance. Use Clevite 77 type Chevy rod bearings.
9. If using stock pistons, cut .060 inch from the top of the pistons.
This will give a deck height of .010 inch if the block hasn't been
surfaced. This modification will result in a full point increase in
compression ratio with the 1725 pistons. Using the 1600 pistons with .060
inch removed will result in an even higher CR. If custom flat top pistons
are to be used, have the compression height set to 1.790 inch for an
unsurfaced block.
Engine oiling modifications for improved reliability:
1. Groove the center main journal on the crank the width of the groove in
the bearing shell and approximately .060 inch deep.
2. Drill the oil passage from the main oil galley to the center main all
the way with a 21/64 inch drill bit.
3. File the oil pump housing to provide no more than .001 inch of end play
4. Obtain a new oil pressure relief valve or shim the old one to provide
60 psi of oil pressure. These valves are also prone to sticking if the
pistons are too tight.
5. Be sure and remove all the oil galley plugs and thoroughly clean the
block. Don't have the block cleaned at the machine shop without also
cleaning it thoroughly yourself before assembly.
Of course, the previous should be augmented with good high performane
engine preparation techniques. Also, to make power above 6000 RPM, you'll
need some cylinder head work and a high performance camshaft.
Milo Muterspaugh
Colorado Springs
Â
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From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpine newsgroup <alpines@autox.team.net>,
William Lewis
<wrlewis@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: RE: cost effective engine mods
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 10:17:00 -0700
Bill wrote,
>Since I don't have $5000 to put into my car's engine, I was wondering
what
>engine modifications get the biggest bang for the buck. I have a
series V
>motor with all the early series externals on it such as the twin Zenith
>WIA carbs and the early exhaust headers. I will be pulling the motor
this
>winter to install an overdrive unit and thought that I would do some
>simple changes such as cleaning up the interior of the stock log
manifold
>and having my cam mildly ground. Any other cost effective
modifications
>that can be made? It would be nice to know cost per horsepower for
many
>of the modifications that can be done to these cars.
It all comes down to how you want to drive the car when you are done.
If I recall, yours is a "driver", so you ought to consider a mild
warmover
as opposed to an all out assault vehicle.
Also, you need to decide if you want to tear the motor down for
what you have in store performance-wise.
Scenario 1 "Cheap and easy"
If you have a low milage car with good compression, you could
just pull the head, pull the sump, pull the pistons and rods out, and
install some of Ramons ARP rod bolts, shot peen and resize
the con rods, re-ring and re-bearing. "roughen up the cylinders for
break in of the new rings".
Port match your intake to the head, verify that you valves are good
and replace if needed.
Get a cam ground.
Good specs that will add performance without killing drivability
are:
265 degree intake 222 deg@.050
275 degree exhaust 231 deg@.050
.315 lift at lobe
cut on 108 degree lobe centers.
Scenario 2 "Not so Cheap and easy"
=Scenario 1+...
Replace pistons with forged flat tops.
Consider Carrillo type rods if your intentions include RPMs
beyond 6000.
Extensive head work including use of modified Datsun 510 valves
and chamber reconfiguration "to deshroud intake valve".
Net compression should be above 11/1, so gasoline will be tough
to come by.
Lighten the flywheel, and get a good compound clutch disc.
You just about will have to run the dual webers here for tunability
issues as well as for sheer flow reasons.
If you are gonna keep your WIA carbs, then your mods should be
limited to camming and compression. Port work will help, but only
to a minor extent, and much deeper mods are needed to make
the heads flow properly, and at that point, the WIAs are really
not suitible "move on to webers".
Jarrid Gross
Ä Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 12:20:25 +1100
To: ALPINES@autox.team.net
From: anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU (Anthony Robinson)
Subject: Re: Electronic tach transplant
>I am rebuilding my S II and am currently working on the electrical
>systems. I am trying to install a S IV electronic tach but I am
>having difficulty determining the connections.
think about it carefully. The electronic tachs are not as accurate and they
don't have the lenses for the indicator and the ignition/main beam warning
lights, I went for modifying the distributor so that I could keep the
original cable drive tacho, it's accurate and original, and it's easier to
understand.
Anthony, Series II, gazelle 1725 engine, cable drive tach.
/ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 1996 11:42:06 +1100
To: ALPINES@autox.team.net
From: anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU (Anthony Robinson)
Subject: Re: Electronic tach transplant
>I have a series II as well. I have a 1725 with an electronic tach.
>Allthough I do not neccesarily agree that the mechanical is in any way
>superior "properly designed tach circuits are very accurate" , I would love
>to install the tach that looks correct for my car.
>
>Is the mod an extension to the oil pump shaft?
>If so please give us some details so we can make one too.
>
>
>Jarrid Gross
>SII EFI
Please do not judge me based on this modification.
What I did was make an extension of the drive key on the bottom of the
distributor shaft. (it would be too difficult to extend the oil pump shaft
as this would require dropping the sump & etc.)
I purchased a second hand housing with the cable drive in it, this is longer
than the standard housing. The drive gear which goes onto the shaft was
kindly provided by Tom W. This required an extension to meet with the top
of the oil pump shaft.
I took a standard distributor and removed the drive key and replaced this
with the drive key that has the tach gear drive. Then I modified the
original drive key to act as an extension. This involves machining the top
off it so that it is the correct length ( about 15mm, or 5/8", but you will
need to measure this yourself, because it needs to be just right) and then
cutting offset slots in it to accept the teeth from the drive key with the
tach gear. This extension then slides snugly onto the bottom of the
distributor shaft.
The final step is to machine the extension piece down to a smaller diameter
so that it doesn't interfere with the gear in the cable drive housing. This
involves placing it on a shaft and machining it into a cone shape. Narrow
on the end which mates with the drive key and thick at the end with the
mating to the oil pump shaft.
The last point to mention is that the pin which attaches the drive key to
the shaft needs to be shortened so that it doesn't foul the gear in the housing.
This work may seem complicated but after weeks of mulling it over in my
head, it was completed in one afternoon with a drill ( to do the turning ),
a hacksaw and a metal file.
| |
| |
| | distributor shaft
| |
_________
| |
| O | pin
|_________|
/ / / / / / / / /
/ / / / / / / / drive key gear
/ / / / / / / / /
| |
|_________|
/----||-----\ offset drive
/ || \
/ \ extension piece
|_________________| <---(distributor shaft ends about here)
||
|| offset drive which joins oil pump shaft
Another note is that putting the end of the series I or II oil pump on would
mean that everything would meet up but as mentioned by someone else a few
weeks back the number of teeth on this piece is wrong so that the
distributor won't rotate at the correct rate.
Also it is worth getting the tach reconditioned because if it seizes it
halts the cable and this can damage the drive keys. (nasty experience)
I hope all that helps
Anthony series II street sweeper ( it picks up little bits of fluff when you
drive it)
“ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 96 17:14:38 CST
From: "Chris Stephenson" <cstephenson@dttus.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: SI restoration
First of all, remove the spark plugs. This relieves the compression
when rotating the crank. Then, try to turn the engine again. If the
engine still does not turn, I would rebuild it.
If you still want to try you're luck:
1. Remove the oil pan and check the bearings - both main and rod - to
see if they have abnormal wear. To check the bearing clearance, you
can use some plastiguage. You're manual should be able to tell you the
proper tolerances. If everything checks out, replace them and be sure
to put them back in exactly the same way you took them off. All
bearings wear a certain way and if you put then on backward or on
another journal, it will probably "pinch" the crank and you definitely
won't be able to turn it.
2. The next checkpoint should be the pistons. To check these, you will
need to remove the cylinder head. Check the cylinder walls for rust
and uneven wear. You can remedy the rust problem without taking the
engine out, but if you have everything disassembled to this point, I
would go ahead and do a full scale rebuild.
3. While the cylinder head is off, check the valves for wear. You can
do this by removing the rockers and putting a straight edge across the
valves. All of the springs should lineup to within a few hundredths of
an inch or so. Thin valves will burn easily.
During a restoration project, I would be inclined to rebuild the
engine anyway. Old engines tend to have lots of old gunk clogging both
oil and water passages. I have learned from experience that sitting on
the side of the highway for hours waiting for a tow truck is no fun.
Also, if the car has been sitting outside, clutches will rust to the
flywheel. Pulling the engine will give you the opportunity to check
this.
If you do decide on the rebuild, have the block cleaned and the crank
and rods balanced. Check the ring gaps in the pistons. Worn-out piston
gaps will cause the rings to eventually break. (This has happened to
me also) In addition, have the cylinder head checked for compression
leaks. Finally, the machine shop can fix any stripped bolt holes by
inserting heli coils. This also saves a lot of headaches.
I hope this helps.
Chris Stephenson
Alpine III
Alpine V
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: SI restoration
Author: haltman@VNET.IBM.COM at Internet-USA
Date: 9/11/96 10:47 AM
I have started on the restoration of my Seris I that some of you may recall
that the guy I got the car from said it was running 2 years ago when he
parked it. Question: Should I be able to turn the engine by hand? If not,
how can I tell if I will need to do a rebuild? Any thoughts/suggestions are
welcomed!
Howard Altman
Series I Alpine B9003995
í Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 877568748.455200-1 ; Thu, 23 Oct 1997 01:05:48 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Howard Altman <haltman@us.ibm.com>
Subject: RE: cleanliness is next to......impossible
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 15:22:00 -0700
Howard Altman wrote,
>Hi all,
>Well I finally have my 1493 enagine apart, foundt that the front main
bearing
>was shot. This is good news, I think. Now I'm ready to rebuild the
engine, I
>wanted to try to put the engine back together as clean as possible,
repaint the
>block and other such nonesense. Anyone have any experience with 1) a
good
>solvent that wont damage aluminum, 2) a source for the right color
engin block
>paint. And while I'm at it.....any tips on the rebuild? I just
figured I'd
>replace all the bearings (main and rod) while I was inside the engine,
and then
>replace all gaskets and rebuild the carbs before putting them back on.
Any and
>all help is appreciated.
Carburettor cleaner that contains tolulene or xylene works very well
to degrease parts, and wont harm aluminum.
It will however take the top layer of most paints off, so dont use
it in places that have paint you want to keep.
While your in there, puts some rings, thrust washers, new chain and
tensioner.
If your not going to turn the journals, make certain that they are not
egg shaped.
Oh, also put in new freeze plugs, and derust the inside of the block.
jarrid
F Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in8.ibm.net id 877569212.40644-1 ; Thu, 23 Oct 1997 01:13:32 +0000
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: hardchrome@netvalue.net
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 18:10:10 -0700
Subject: Re: cleanliness is next to......impossible
Organization: Biola University
hardchrome@netvalue.net,Internet writes:
>Anyone have any experience with 1) a good
>> solvent that wont damage aluminum, i've had lots of luck with
>kerosene, but it needs to be washed off with
>something stronger
>2) a source for the right color engin block
>> paint. i've had good luck with krylon products. their plain paint has
>even held
>up wheni used it in a pinch
>From: joe kleifges <hardchrome@netvalue.net>
>Subject: Re: cleanliness is next to......impossible
>Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 17:19:09 -0700
I definately agree with the verdict on Krylon paint. I have used their
semi-flat black to repaint of finish off parts I've already spray with
enamel or powder coat. It matches very well and is very tough. I
highly recommend it over other brands.
Christopher Albers
Ü Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in8.ibm.net id 877651404.64522-1 ; Fri, 24 Oct 1997 00:03:24 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpine list <alpines@autox.team.net>, Ray Frazier <ray@why.net>
Subject: Re: Bad motor
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 14:57:00 -0700
I wrote,
>Cam and compression are easy ways to bump performance on a rebuild.
>
Ray Frazier wrote,
>Remembering that I would like to maintain driveability what would be
good
>specs for a cam regrind on my 1600 engine.?
>My pistons are currently .030 over does anyone know of a suitable
oversize,
>flat top piston that would bump up compression a little?
Flat tops will put your compression at well over 11/1 CR.
.040 over is the next step up.
A milled head CAN put you in the 9.6 to 9.9/1 range, which works
well with super unleaded fuel, and ocasional octane boost to
get to around 93 to 94 octane.
Good specs for the cam would be about 225 intake @.050,
230 exhaust @.050 on 108 degree centers.
This cam, and 9.6/1 CR should net you about 100 BHP with
a 1600 CC engine and appropriate carbs.
800 RPM Idle would be a little lumpy, but would run smooth
at 1000 RPM.
Power would be better than stock across the rev range from
about 2500 RPM up to a tad over 6000 RPM..
If you use a SV head, you wont need to do any port work
to flow reasonably, just grind out the casting flash.
Oh, and dont forget to get those ARP rod bolts that Ramon
offers.
Jarrid Gross
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 877706445.146980-1 ; Fri, 24 Oct 1997 15:20:45 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: Scouting for SW ideas (was Re: Bad motor)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 08:16:00 -0700
Jerome,
>I'll probably do this if I keep my 1592, which I'm becoming more
>inclined to do for originality. Except for the 3- vs 5-main issue, it
>sounds like I can reach the top-end of my personal power band on it
>with some comfortable mods. How much milling can be done?
Sounds fair.
The 3 main engine works really well when done right, but
fails even better when built wrong.
Balance is a major issue as is the best possible parts.
Plan to spend about a thou "USD" to build a stocker.
The head will take nearly 100 thou, but this is way more than you
need.
Milling to the wear bar is just about right.
I'd CC the head after the mill, to see what your CR will be.
I have all the data on piston crown+gasket volume as well.
If you are gonna run an overdrive, you cant go too hog wild
with a hipo motor because the OD output shaft will snap or
bend if you generate too much stall torque in first or second
gear.
Plan to produce power in the 2500 to 6500 RPM range,
and use a "soft" clutch like a stocker because a good
clutch wont let you slip it to take off, and its the stall
that kills the OD's output shaft.
>I work with some people that have created a software framework for
I honestly cant think of a simple application for such code.
If the code is mathmatically intensive, there are plenty of potential
automotive applications, but each one requires expertise in
a particulaur discipline, of which I am the master of few.
Recently, I did a similar tool for my company "UNIT INSTRUMENTS"
where different model devices had some features and not others.
When a customer specifies our products, the part number is generated
from the sum of all the options, plus the base model.
The problem here was that nearly all of the possble permutations
of potential part numbers were invalid due to some models not
supporting some options ECT.
Carefull thought and planning allowed me to create a spreadsheet
driven set of rules that tells what options are available with what
models,
what the restrictions are ECT.
The application software takes in the spreadsheet, and asks that the
customer click in there options requirements, and the potential models
are eliminated if an option precludes a particular model.
In this way, only valid part numbers can be ordered, and the customer
gets to understand what is available, and what is not.
The package is now in full distribution, and our main competitor
copied my idea, but apperantly couldnt get a savvi enough
programmer, cause theirs allows you to generate any possible
option permutation, and once again, most are not technically
possible.
Jarrid
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 877969558.545124-1 ; Mon, 27 Oct 1997 16:25:58 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpine list <alpines@autox.team.net>, Ray Frazier <ray@why.net>
Subject: RE: bad motor
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 08:18:00 -0800
----------
From: Ray Frazier
To: alpine list
Subject: RE: bad motor
Date: Monday, October 27, 1997 2:04AM
>I was going to have my machinist cc my head to see if it had been
milled =
>previously. What is the volume of the combustion chamber on a new head?
About 38 ccs, but go by the wear bar on the bottom of the head.
A new head has about .040 between the face and the wear bar.
If you dont have a wear bar, its been milled a lot.
Jarrid Gross
J Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in10.ibm.net id 877996312.45674-1 ; Mon, 27 Oct 1997 23:51:52 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, EJMW@aol.com
Subject: RE: Generator to Alternator conversion
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 15:47:00 -0800
----------
From: EJMW@aol.com
>Does anyone have any thoughts on switching my ser II from Generator to
>alternator
>
>What changes would I have to make to the electrical system to do so. I
will
>be replacing the wireing harness anyway.
Eric,
I would only install a GM or similar other 1 wire alternator.
This will eliminate a lot of wiring troubles, and eliminate any
external control box.
A GM alternator runs under $30 rebuilt, and a chevy truck straight 6 cyl
bracket will mount to the alpine engine with only a few drilled
holes in the bracket.
Similar stories are told of other alternators.
Remove your old control box, it will be useless to the new alt.
The connection is very simple, connect the alternators output
directly to the terminal that fed the control box's A1 terminal.
The old box's D terminal can be connected to A, and A1
to make the lights, and the charge light work properly as well.
Also, the GM alternator requires a resistor, and lamp "as a charge
indicator". No biggie here.
Jarrid Gross
ï Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 877997327.134254-1 ; Tue, 28 Oct 1997 00:08:47 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, EJMW@aol.com
Subject: RE: Generator to Alternator conversion
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 16:03:00 -0800
Somebody just corrected me off-line and is totally correct.
If you have a positive ground, you will have to swap the battery
terminals to use any alternator.
Jarrid.
Õ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 879870897.99438-1 ; Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:34:57 +0000
From: GDWF22A@prodigy.com (MR RICHARD T TRENK SR)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:27:17, -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: max bore question
..
The message from the Imp owner about how he installed .010 o/s rings
which is born of poverty and/or lack of proper parts. The oversize
rings could not form a proper perfect circle fit into the cylinders
but he was satisfied with the results and likely the rings did
eventually wear into an improved fit.
You may NOT intend to beat on this spare engine but you do expect it
to run quiet, no smoke, and normal compression etc. None of these
criteria will be obtained with loose clearences.
What is needed is one of two things:
Either bore up to the next std o/s which I assume is .010 o/s in your
case. Then fit that size pistons and rings !
Or..... First determine if there is ANY RIDGE at the top of cylinder
and if yes, then use a ridge reamer to cut that tiny ridge off and
thereby obtain a STRAIGHT un-ridged cylinder wall. This is important
to keeping the hone stones completely in wall contact and prevent the
stones riding on a top ridge. Next use a hone which is a long size
stone hone . Some are short stones and don't bear well and true. Also
make certain the stone grit is not too severe and will leave a fine
smooth final finish, not a coarse finish.
Next wash cylinder walls with diesel fuel or kerosine (not mineral
spirits....we want some oiliness affect).
Insert hone and using a slow rpm 1/2" drill, start the hone while
moving up/down slowly so as to create a cross hatch affect in which
the up/down markings cross one another at 30 to 45 degree angles.
On the up stroke have your stones clear the top of the cyl by about
1/2-3/4" and about the same at the bottom of the cyl (don't crash
stones into any part of crankshaft).
Stop every 30 seconds and squirt more lube into cyl. and regularly
remove the hone and wash off the stones. When removing hone, first
squeeze stones together so as NOT to mark the cylinder wall with a
vertical drag line.
Keep this up until you have removed 100% of all raised rusted
portions and have an even surface of polished affect from top to
bottom.
When you decide the work is all done, the block MUST be properly
washed to remove grit from the stones. Use common hot water and soap
to scrub out all cylinders . When done, apply a coat of motor oil to
prevent rusting of the clean walls.
What is left is the pits which will of course be BELOW wall level.
While they are not nice and look like hell, in actuality, they serve
as oil traps and help lube piston and rings . We can accept pitted
walls if the condition is below the top two ring positions (reason
being that at the moment of power explosion, the two compression
rings are jammed hard against the walls and we would like to have a
nice clean fit in that area).
You will NOT be able to remove a great amount of metal with the hone
and after about 3-5 minutes in a single cylinder you will have it
perhaps .002-.004" oversized if even that much !
Now then, this sort of a cylinder can be fitted with a STANDARD
piston and ring set and will usually break in nicely and give nice
long service. Make certain to use ONLY a U-Flex oil ring set. This
is the ring which is actually a stampped spring steel and looks like
a letter U with the open part against the cyl wall. It is the very
best of oil control rings ever invented and due to the pitted
cylinder surfaces you will have it is the best type to use.
However.......before ending this advice I must caution that what you
have done is not a first class engine job. As you already know,
there is lots more to "rebuilding" than what is discussed here and a
proper rebuilt engine will have had line bored mains, rebuilt con
rods, new cam bearings, cyinders bored while block is aligned on main
bearing saddles, cautic soda degreasing of block, new core plugs, oil
pump possibly changed or at least end play adjusted, crank thrust
washers adjusted, etc. etc. etc.
I purchased lots of new bare engine blocks from Rootes and used them
in customers rebuilds but I would point out that a used block has
been "stress relieved" over the years and we always used only a used
block for race engines. In this way our machine shop tolerences were
better retained when the engine was heated up. In fact, my personal
race engine blocks were heated in a stove we made from 55 gal oil
drums and fired by drain oil. Once the block was up to about 200-250
deg F. we dragged it onto the boring machine and set it up as fast as
possible , wrapped in old blankets to hold the heat, and then bored
cylinders. When it cooled too much it went back to the oven for a re
heat as necessary.
Once the machine bed was set properly this was a quick operation of
on/off the machine.
This sort of fussy perfection is of course NOT required for normal
engine jobs.
Dick T.
Ù Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 877622670.527186-1 ; Thu, 23 Oct 1997 16:04:30 +0000
From: "Spontelli, Ramon" <rs11@ElSegundoCA.NCR.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Bad motor
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 09:08:00 -0700
> I take it you have some left? I'm re-doing either my original 1592 or
a
> 1725. I have to confess I don't know why one would bother, completely
> from my own ignorance of the field. But, I can appreciate doing
things
> right. So, can you provide a little background? I don't intend any
> racing, but I like to drive fast.
Last summer, while contemplating the rebuild of a Series V motor for a
Series II autocross car, I was chasing down implications of the
Chevy-rod application. I had stopped off at my machinist's place, and
was showing him an Alpine rod, and asking questions about using the
Chevy rods. His first question was something along the lines of:
"What's wrong with this rod? THIS is a f***in' forged steel rod . . ."
Then, as he was foolin' around with the thing, one of the rod bolts fell
out and rolled around on the counter. "There's the problem! Them
f***in' rod bolts are no f***in' good!" (Colorful guy!)
Anyhow, the resulting search for good f***in' rod bolts ended up in a
special deal with ARP. I had a "demand" for about 20 sets from people
on the Alpine list, so I ordered 40 sets. I sold 20 at cost (+
shipping) to the people on the list who said they wanted a set, and
offered the rest for sale at a small markup--just enough so that I'd
have mine for free when they were all sold.
I have ten sets left, and if you live in the United States, a check for
$39.00 will get you a set via the U.S. Postal Service. Make it payable
to me, Ramon Spontelli, and sent it to me at home:
Ramon Spontelli
2275 Republic Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627-3359
Also, please indicate on the check that it's for PFRT/MP-12.
(I'm self-employed, and have to leave audit trails, just in case.)
Here's the ad copy I sent to the club newsletters:
Parts for Sale--ARP rod bolts for Series II through V Alpines. A
cooperative venture of subscribers to the Alpine list on the Internet
produced a limited supply of high-performance rod bolts, manufactured by
Automotive Racing Products (ARP) of Santa Paula, California. Forged
from 8740 chrome moly steel with a 190,000-psi tensile strength rating,
these bolts are among the strongest available for OEM replacement rods.
Each set includes eight 2-3/8-inch 11/32-inch rod bolts, eight nuts,
specially formulated ARP moly-based lubricant, and instructions for both
the stretch (0.0066 to 0.0070 inch) and torque (35 ft. lbs.) tightening
methods. The price is $35.00 per set, plus shipping and handling, which
ranges from $4.00, in the United States, to $9.20 for Australia and New
Zealand. Call Ramon Spontelli, Pointy Fin Race Team, at 714/642-6023,
4:00 to 9:00 p.m., Pacific Time, during the week or whenever you feel
lucky during the weekend.
Ramon
P.S. Plan on resizing the big ends of your rods if you use these bolts.
When they are torqued properly, the clamping force is substantially
higher than that of the stock/OEM rod bolts.
Ê Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 879914030.196222-1 ; Wed, 19 Nov 1997 04:33:50 +0000
Date: 18 Nov 97 08:13:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump
From: "John C. Slade" <edalsj@igs.net>
To: "Alpines" <alpines@autox.team.net>
<SMALLER>My two bits worth.
Being in the middle of an engine rebuild job with three Alpine engines
in pieces, I have some interesting observations. One of the cams has a
fuel pump eccentric with heavy scoring, double grooves which move
forward and back on the cam as they go around it. The second cam has
the same phenomenon but relatively mild, while the third has no
surface damage at all.
Fuel pumps apparently come with two different versions of the
activating lever. One has a solid bronze coloured lever, the other
(7950175 stamped on the arm) has a lever of the same size and shape,
but laminated from three pieces of steel held together at the cam end
with the scoring damage both had the latter type of fuel pump arms,
the cam with no damage had the first type.
If a cam is sent for reconditioning, mild scoring can be ground out,
but more serious scoring will probably need to be welded and ground.
The fuel pump appears to have some tolerance regarding the exact
position of contact, and with mild cam grinding will still contact the
cam in a functioning position.
John S.</SMALLER>
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 880157743.115618-1 ; Sat, 22 Nov 1997 00:15:43 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: Jay Laifman <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking side plate
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 16:08:00 -0800
Jay wrote,
>Ok, so how much will you charge for one?
I'd do it for you gratis if I had the time.
Sorry to say that I dont right now.
The piece is really easy, you just use a new gasket as a template,
the mark and centerpunch the places where the holes go.
You will have to put something like a 3/8 NPT fitting for
your PCV though.
Use a 1/4 inch plate of alluminum.
The lifter clatter will be reduced as a result.
I used studs all the way around the plate for ease of assembly
and to stop the oil from leaking from the top 5 cover holes.
Jarrid
V Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in7.ibm.net id 898014211.95010-1 ; Tue, 16 Jun 1998 16:23:31 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: Alpine List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Alpine Roman Candle
Date: Tue, 16 Jun 1998 09:23:00 -0700
Chris wrote,
> Should I get rid of the
>electric pump? The problem was a piece of crud stuck in the fuel jet. The
>floats could not close the jet and the gas kept on coming. I also noticed
>a lot of black flakes in the carb bowl. What is that?
The electric pump should be just fine, but its pressure is really important.
1.5 to 2.5 PSI is the best pressure for all of the alpine carbs.
The Strombergs seem most problematic of all the carbs at higher
pressures, mostly because these carbs pee out a bowl vent hole
into the air filters, instead of dumping raw fuel into the inlet as in all
the other carb configs.
Most high performance carbs like to see 3 to 5 PSIG pressure, this
assures that adequate fuel volume can be attained. These carbs
have a lot of leverage on the needle and seat from the float, and
can shut down at this pressure.
Many aftermarket electric pumps "particularly performance pumps"
have quite a bit more pressure than is needed for most carbs.
Many offer as high as 7 PSIG in a standard diaphragm pump.
The Alpine carbs just wont take that kind of pressure, and add in
a little dirt, and you have a fire potential.
Put a filter inline with the outlet of your pump, put in an adjustable
regulator, be sure that your fuel lines are clean, and you should
be in much better shape.
Jarrid Gross
¦ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 882197362.74292-1 ; Mon, 15 Dec 1997 14:49:22 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, GEFA)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'Ray Frazier'" <ray@why.net>
Subject: RE: paint schemes
Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 09:52:18 -0500
According to the SAOC of England, correct colors for most components
are:
Satin Black - radiator, engine block, pulley, starter, dynamo, oil
filter and base, dipstick, sump, chassis, steering box, water pump, and
gearbox
Natural metal - cylinder head, clutch housing, rocker cover, all fluid
reservoirs, heater valve, distributor housing, carbs, exhaust pipes,
springs
Gloss black - horns, vacuum chamber on servo
Crackle Silver - Zenith air cleaners
the bonnet prop is body color
Scott Christie
Series 3 Alpine Registry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ray Frazier [SMTP:ray@why.net]
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 1997 12:02 AM
> To: alpine list
> Subject: paint schemes
>
> I finally got my motor (engine) back from the machine shop today. Now
> I
> ned to know what the correct colors for the items under the hood are.
> In particular the oil pan, timing cover, and tappet cover. i know
> they
> are black but shold they be gloss, flat or semi gloss. What color
> should
> the block be? also the radiator?
> Is there a source for this kind of information?
>
> any help would be appreciated
ÿ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 876758817.54340-1 ; Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:06:57 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Accelerator pump stuck
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 08:56:00 -0700
----------
From: James Downing
>While testing the action of the accelerator pumps on my Zenith WIAs, I
>pushed the pump lever too far and stuck the piston in the front carb in
the
>down (compressed) position. I tried tapping the carb body outside the
pump
>to see if it would free, and then took off the top cover and gently
tapped
>the piston itself but no luck. Anybody have a good idea how to free
this?
If you can get the piston to return with you pinky finger "or someone
elses smaller pinky", compressed air through the passage with
the non return ball "ball remeoved" should put enough pressure
on the piston to allow its return.
Clean the bore with fine steel wool after you get the piston out.
Jarrid Gross
¬ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 900731239.87728-1 ; Sat, 18 Jul 1998 03:07:19 +0000
Internet Mail Server 2.1); Fri, 17 Jul 1998 20:07:18 -0700
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 20:01:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Crankshaft pulley seal?
Organization: Biola University
It has been discussed within the last month under Crankshaft Pulley
Mods, I think.
But let me give you a brief description of the mod.
First, the timing cover hole must be drilled larger so that a flange
can be braised on that will accept a pressure fit seal. Second, the
pulley must be machined down so that a smooth metal sleeve can be
pressed on. That's about it, in brief. Sorry, I don't have dimensions
Christopher
“ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 889105293.91056-1 ; Thu, 05 Mar 1998 13:41:33 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, GEFA)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'Ray Frazier'" <rayf@airmail.net>, alpine list <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Engine paint Colors
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 08:37:02 -0500
Ray - the following information is from the SAOC:
Satin Black - radiator, engine block, pulley, starter, dynamo, oil
filter and base, dipstick, oil pan, chassis components, steering box,
water pump
Natural metal - cylinder head, clutch housing, rocker cover, all fluid
reservoirs, heater valve, distributor housing, carbs, exhaust pipes,
springs
Gloss black - horns and vacuum chamber on servo
While I personally have not investigated this, it looks to me like the
dashboard finish could be replicated with a can of black crackle paint
from companies such as Eastwood.
My .02
Scott Christie
Series 3 Registry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ray Frazier [SMTP:rayf@airmail.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 1998 7:43 PM
> To: alpine list
> Subject: Engine paint Colors
>
> What color are the block, brackets, pulleys, radiator on a series 3
> suposed to be? How about the steering components (colomn, steering
> box,
> etc.)? I know they should be black, but should they be flat, gloss, or
> semi-gloss? Also, what color is the fan supposed to be?
É Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 902763216.57290-1 ; Mon, 10 Aug 1998 15:33:36 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, The Mole <dbilesky@cln.etc.bc.ca>
Subject: RE: Oil hole behind the Timing chain cover
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 08:25:00 -0700
Doug wrote,
>Covering the oil hole behind the timing chain cover has been recommended to
>help with my extreme pulley/cover leak.
>
>I also have the rubber ring from SS.
>
>However, I have questions about plugging the hole.
>
>1. Can this be done with the engine still in place?
>There is room if someone has a good idea for plugging the hole.
>
>2. Is their enough oil for the chain once the hole is plugged?
>I assume the oil return holes at the bottom remain open and there must be
>enough oil vapour to help.
I am assuming that you are talking about the oil tube that feeds the
chain tensioner rubbing block.
Cuting off all flow will probably kill your chain/cogs and tensioner
block real quick, so this sound like a dangerous proposition.
The timing cover can be removed from the engine while still in the
car. Its a lot of work, but if the engine is fresh and doesnt need
additional work, its best to leave it in place. You will need to pull
the radiator, and water pump to gain access to the timing cover.
It would appear though that some compromise can be made in the
quantity of oil sent to the tensioner.
I would remove your old oil tube, pull the spring and ball.
Clean it up real good, measure the current hole.
The braze the hole close.
Drill a .030 or so hole in the spot that you brazed.
If the end of the oil tube is open, braze it shut too, it just
wastes oil pressure dumping it into the sump.
Another problem with poor oil control "at least on my car"
is durring hard braking, oil from the sump comes foreward,
and fills the timing cover throough an oil return hole in the first
main bearing. Also, during really hard breaking, oil comes
forward into the timing cover through a vent hole where the
oil tube exits the timing cover cavity.
On my engines, I think I'm gonna put a one way baffle on the
oil return hole in main#1, and blank off the vent up above.
sorry so long.
Jarrid Gross
g Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:51:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael J. Appleton, The Man, The Myth, The Legend" <appletom@tahoma.cwu.edu>
To: Jim Neawedde <Jim.Neawedde@po.cle.ab.com>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Oil FIlter/Manifold 'By Pass' valve to Oil Cooler on
Jim -
The joints where the round section of the cooler meets those square
elbows are just solder joints. I had to resolder mine last summer and
had the same problems as you getting the thing out. I finally ended up
having to cut the nuts off, I used a cutting torch. For new nuts 1/2"
pipe thread is the clear ticket to happiness. As for the cooler
becomming blocked, if you take it apart it should be easily fixed. Those
little wires for cooling on the outside are also on the inside. A little
flushing with gas or a solvent I think would clear it out. Mine was
clear. Hope I've helped!
Mike Appleton
'67 series V
On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Jim Neawedde wrote:
> Thanks for your replies:
>
> >> 3. I have one of the 'round' oil coolers, should I consider
> replacing
> >> it with a new unit. I have a feeling that it might be partial
> plugged
> >> up. The high pressure on the inlet side is then causing oil to seep
> >> out the gaskets.
>
> >If the gaskets cant hold the oil pressure of about 70 lbs max (cold) then
> >I would suspect the gaskets/surfaces. Why do you think the cooler is
> >blocked? If it is, I wouldn't even use it - what if the crud blocking the
> >cooler gets into the engine. Bye Bye engine.
>
> No real reason, except that this engine sat for over 10 years, before I
> started working on it. Howerver, the oil was drained from the car when it
> died (10+ years ago), so crud would be at a minimum.
>
>
> >Where is the leak. Earlier you said in the cooler, here u say the
> >gaskets??
>
> No, its not from the cooler itself: The area it is coming from is
> where the 'round' oil cooler connects to the 'square' manifold
> section. The square manifold section has a pipe off the top which
> helps hold the oil cooler to the bracket, and also this pipe is where
> the oil line gets connected.
>
> This would be real easy, except that when this car was repainted (not
> by me) all of these fittings and hoses also got painted. Hence, I
> can't get the dumb thing apart. I have been fussing with this section
> for a couple of weeks, applying lubricants, rust removers, chipping a
> the paint etc.. I have now reach the stage where I am starting to
> take this personal!
>
> The (rational) Options as I see it:
>
> 1. Put in a new oil cool and leave the old one in place, reroute
> hoses.
>
> 2. Take a hacksaw to nuts and try not to screw up the threads on the
> pipe too much in the process.
>
> Other options which come to mind where not included, to prevent waste
> of band width.
>
>
> Any other options? or comments?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Jim Neawedde
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
>
i Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, Ca)" <GROSS@unit.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, gawilson@gawilson.austin.ibm.com
Subject: RE: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 14:29:00 -0800
Gale,
A larget socket would obviuosly be nice, but I use a vise-grip locked
around the area
that sticks out of the crank pully.
Put the car in 4th gear with the e-brake on "This locks the engine".
A carefull whack with a lead hammer in the counter-clockwise direction
will likely unlock the bolt.
Find a correct fitting socket, cause you'll need it for tightening the
bolt to the 160 to 180 lb ft spec. later.
Good luck!
Jarrid
>Could someone tell me what kind of tool I need to get the crank
>bolt off the front of my SV 1725 engine? The one with the manual
starter
>lug that sticks out so far my deep sockets won't fit. This is
>embarrasing -- usually I only need help assembling things, not
>taking them apart.
>Thanks,
>gale
ú Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 1997 23:34:23 -0500
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: mmcewen@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca (John McEwen)
Subject: Re: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
I may take some flak for this but here goes. For years I have read Brit
manuals on motorcycles and cars involving the necessary "locking of the
engine" in order to remove bolts from crankshafts or clutches or other
parts which involve twisting something attached to something which twists.
British tool use and mechanical repair did not evolve from the "two
spanners does everything" approach for many years - if evolution could be
described as the process. As a result the use of modern tools was never
part of the prescribed methodology.
There is a very easy method of removing bolts in the above circumstance.
It is called an impact wrench. All that's needed is air pressure and the
correct socket. It may be difficult to find a socket but there is one out
there which can be obtained with a bit of searching. I have made a habit
of purchasing those odd sizes that I need or might need at flea markets.
The impact wrench will remove the bolt without any fuss and a whole lot
more safely than reefing on it with wrenches and snipes. The wrench will
put it back on, and finding the correct torque on a large bolt requiring
160 - 180 foot pounds is simply a matter of putting it on as tight as it
will go without breaking something or someone. The torque setting in this
case is probably a minimum. Most impacts will not deliver much more torque
than this without very high airpressures.
I have used this method quite successfully for years and will stand by it
varying air pressure or input air if one is afraid of breaking something.
>In a message dated 97-03-04 20:48:31 EST, GROSS@UNIT.COM (Jarrid Gross (Yorba
>Linda, Ca)) writes:
>
>>A larget socket would obviuosly be nice, but I use a vise-grip locked
>>around the area
>>that sticks out of the crank pully.
>>
>>Put the car in 4th gear with the e-brake on "This locks the engine".
>>A carefull whack with a lead hammer in the counter-clockwise direction
>>will likely unlock the bolt.
>>
>>Find a correct fitting socket, cause you'll need it for tightening the
>>bolt to the 160 to 180 lb ft spec. later.
>>
>>
>
>Sounds like the ticket for loosening the Whitworth-sized bolt. But what
>about tightening it?
>
>Does anyone have any ideas on how to secure the engine (in the car,
>preferably with the pan still on) and torque the bolt down to 160-180 lb ft
>before the clutch starts slipping?
>
>Dick Sanders
>Series V x 2
>
¿ Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 09:44:21 -0500
To: gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu
From: edalsj@igs.net (John C. Slade)
Subject: Re: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
Hi Ray,
You may still be on the right track.
First, the nut size. The original flats size may well have been 1 1/4", but
most people who have removed them in the past have not had the correct
socket, so have used things like vise grips and hammers, cold chisels and
hammers, etc which end up spreading the metal somewhat so that a slightly
larger socket is required. My particular crank bolt had had the cold chisel
treatment. The 34mm socket had a very small amount of play, but did the job
perfectly.
On the depth of socket required. On one engine I stripped for parts, a
previous owner had obviously decided that the starter lug was never going
to be used again, so it had been sawn off. Of course, a shallow socket is
all that is required to remove this modified bolt.
Sorry for forgetting the subject line on my last message. J.
x Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 09:52:20 -0500
To: DSand95510@aol.com
From: edalsj@igs.net (John C. Slade)
Subject: Re: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
Hi Dick,
Remind me to stand well clear of any engine John McEwen has recently put
together!
The usual methed of torquing the crank bolt/nut is to remove the starter
motor and jam the fly wheel with a suitably large screw driver. This is
also the best method, IMHO, for removing the crank bolt.
J.
Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 1997 10:44:24 -0500
To: edalsj@igs.net (John C. Slade)
From: mmcewen@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca (John McEwen)
Subject: Re: Removing crank bolt with starter lug
>Hi Dick,
>
>Remind me to stand well clear of any engine John McEwen has recently put
>together!
>
>The usual methed of torquing the crank bolt/nut is to remove the starter
>motor and jam the fly wheel with a suitably large screw driver. This is
>also the best method, IMHO, for removing the crank bolt.
Hi John:
Obviously, I would not use an impact wrench for delicate work, but if you
have not using air tools to disassemble and assemble engines you are
donating a lot of time you can't get back. Most professionals use air
tools today because they save time, and wear and tear on the body. Final
torquing is still done by torque wrench but massive bolts are still most
easily, and safely, done by air wrench. The knowledge and experience of
the assembler is the single biggest guarantee. BTW, I am still running
engines which I assembled 20 years ago and have had no failures of any
sort. I rebuilt the engine in my van 5 years ago and have put 20,000 hard
miles on it pulling a heavy trailer while transporting two large
motorcycles. No problems and it was assembled exclusively with air tools
plus a final torquing with torque wrench where necessary. My MG was
restored two years and 6,000 miles ago. It has needed no adjustments or
wrench work of any sort since.
I would not recommend locking an engine by jamming anything in the ring
gear. A failure here would be truly expensive to repair. This sounds more
like a good old-fashioned bodge. An air wrench applies its force quickly
and directly to the bolt. It loosens the interference by the sudden force
which utilizes the inertia of the crankshaft mass. Slow pressure from a
wrench only succeeds in defeating that inertia.
John
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