Jerome's Sunbeam Pages
My Alpines List Archives - Rebuild-Body
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¼Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Sun, 16 Feb 1997 09:51:05 +1200
From: Karl Gilchrist <xtr25618701@xtra.co.nz>
To: Don Bertsch <hx165@cleveland.freenet.edu>
Subject: Re: "Carnival Red" duplicate
Don Bertsch wrote:
>
> I am writing this on behalf of my brother in law, ...... He wants to know a modern equivalent paint combination....... to duplicate the original Rootes factory color "Carnival Red". ..
Don when I repainted my Alpine I used a very durable two pack prep
callled Glasurit. They have all the Rootes colours in their catalogue
(Including Carnival Red) and Paint numbers to match. So I just said I
wanted Signal Red which is Rootes number 122. Result was awesome and
also a perfect match with the original paint colour in unpainted areas
eg under the bonnet catch plate. The other advantage is that glauserit
is so good that when I got a stone dent on the bonnet I was able to
push it out without needing to repaint.
Karl Gilchrist B 39517760 RRO OD
Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 21:33:03 +1200
From: Karl Gilchrist <xtr25618701@xtra.co.nz>
To: Rick Hoefle <NamasteRH@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: "Carnival Red" duplicate
> > Karl Gilchrist B 39517760 RRO OD
>
> EXCELLENT INFO, Karl. By any chance do you know where the paint is
> sold? That is, I am in the U.S., are you? If not, maybe you can give
> us all whatever you have about the manufacturer.
Glaserit is a German Paint and apparently is available in the States and
distrubuted there by BASF. I've checked with the New Zealand Distrubtor
and they are going to give me a contact address on the Eastern seaboard
wonderful! Looking through my British Car Mags alot of British classics
are painted in it. Another feature of it is, it comes in a rubberised
form that you can paint on just the bottom 4 inches of the car and this
means that stone chips won't happen as easily. I didn't do this as I was
scared it wouldn't look right but I should have-it looks the same as the
top from 2 feet and it certainly cuts down on stone chips.Will let you
now more as soon as I get the address.Karl
VReceived: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: 05 Aug 96 09:09:50 EDT
From: Scott Christie <103226.3155@CompuServe.COM>
To: Yossi Hassan <emall@netvision.net.il>
Subject: Re: Carnival Red - help
the Du Pont number for Carnival Red is 84016-H; are you sure your car was
originally Carnival Red? look for #39 on your data plate
If the Du Pont number doesn't work, and your painter has paint chip books from
Canadian companies let me know and I'll look up those code numbers for you
Scott Christie
Series 3
'Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 876403328.52904-1 ; Thu, 09 Oct 1997 13:22:08 +0000
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 1997 06:18:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Meek <kevnmeek@netcom.com>
To: Alpine-List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming cost
On Thu, 9 Oct 1997 EJMW@aol.com wrote:
> Has anyone had their sunbeam brightwork rechromed and how much did it run
> you?
I had the bumpers, bumper guards, and tailight housings
re-chromed on my Tiger for $550 (US). I shudder to think
how much it'll cost for the Alpine when/if I ever get to it...
............................................................
Kevin Meek (kevnmeek@netcom.com) Sunbeam Tiger B382002202
Santa Cruz, California Sunbeam Alpine SI B9011324
†Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 876441791.54630-1 ; Fri, 10 Oct 1997 00:03:11 +0000
Date: Thu, 9 Oct 97 18:40:15 PDT
From: Tim Stiffy <tstiffy@pulsenet.com>
Subject: RE: Rechroming cost
To: EJMW@aol.com, alpines@autox.team.net
Eric,
I'm waiting for my plater to finish my backup light rings. The four pieces
cost totaled $106. To be honest, I don't know if that's a good price or not.
I need to get the outside door handles, contrails, and inside pull handles
done. I'll compare new against rechrome and go with what is best.
Tim Stiffy
Alpine Series I
---------------Original Message---------------
Has anyone had their sunbeam brightwork rechromed and how much did it run
you?
(windshield frame, bumpers, window frames, doorhandles etc.)
Please let me know.
Thanks
Eric
'62 series II
----------End of Original Message----------
ôReceived: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 878549103.538126-1 ; Mon, 03 Nov 1997 09:25:03 +0000
To: alpines@autox.team.net, sergio@global.co.za (sergio)
From: A.G.Whiteford@gcal.ac.uk (Andy Whiteford)
Subject: re: Questions and more questions... steel thicknesses
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:23:27 +0000
Sergio Ferreira wrote
>I am wanting to repair the rust that has got the better of my Alpine. I was
>informed that 1mm cold rolled sheet steel is the best to use when
>manufacturing pieces to repair bodywork. Is this information correct or is
>there a better type or thickness of steel to use?
Hi Sergio.
*IF* you've got a "Series" Alpine, 1959-68, I'd use these steel thicknesses:
Central sill, A post, B post, Cruciform, front & rear spring Hangers and
all 'chassis' sections
need to be 1.8 mm or 2.0 mm mild steel (British standard wire gauge s.w.g.
16 - 14 ). No thinner.
Any other 'structural' stuff i.e. sills / arches / floors / internal panels / :
use 1.6 mm ( swg 18 )
Outer panels i.e. wings / door skins etc you could use use 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm
( swg 22 / 20 )
if you've an earlier "Mark" Alpine, I can't help you, sorry.
why not tell all of us a bit more about the cars ?
Andy (the amateur welder), Glasgow, Scotland
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in10.ibm.net id 878848810.25022-1 ; Thu, 06 Nov 1997 20:40:10 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: Roll bar dims
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 12:37:00 -0800
Jerome,
Sorry so long in this reply, I remembered your request, but every
time I did so, I didnt have the time to perform the measurement.
The dimension of the bar is 29 inches from the bottom of the mount
flanges, to the tip top of the bar.
The MFGr of mine is AutoPower.
It mounts at 4 points across the rear seating area.
Jarrid Gross
ñ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 879987998.110568-1 ; Thu, 20 Nov 1997 01:06:38 +0000
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:02:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Chrome
Organization: Biola University
anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU,Internet writes:
>Christopher and others,
>I have resprayed my Minx and done a patch on the Alpine and I don't know
>how to get a finish such as you are describing. I've used buff and shine
>paste which says it will do it but I am always left with ultra fine
>scoring
>which is too visible when viewing the reflections of bright objects.
>Even
>the finish from the panel shop when they did a repair shows this fine
>scratching.
>Also, I started the buffing of the paint with 1200 sandpaper, which
>shouldn't be too coarse, should it?
>How do I get it mirror smooth?
>Anthony.
>>All,
>> The body, a beautiful Forest Green (96), was done by a friend for
>>what I consider to be a very good price. It has been color sanded to
>>the nth degree and looks incredible, except for the few inevitable
>>chips and scratches acquired during the project. The paint is so clear
>>you could use it as a mirror for shaving.
>>Christopher Albers
>>'67 SV od BRG
>>
>>
>From: Agent 86 <anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU>
>Subject: Re: Chrome
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:11:27 +1100
After spraying the car you need to wet sand it. Prep the surface with
a wax/ grease remover and make sure there are no grit particles on the
surface by wiping with a tack rag, otherwise you will ruin the paint.
Using a constant supply of water from a hose or the like begin sanding
a small area in a circular motion with 1200 grit paper attached to a
sponge to make sure even pressure is applied. The paper must be soaked
in water for 20 min or so before starting. As you sand periodocally
dip the paper in water to keep it clean and to prevent clogging. Do a
small area at a time until you've completed the car. Repeat the
process using 1600 and then 2000. Some painters use 1200, 1400,1600
then 2000; or just do 1200, 1400, and 1600. To achieve the best result
though you must go to 2000. Hope this helps and if I got any of it
wrong, someone please correct me.
Christopher Albers
ZReceived: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 886304277.134174-1 ; Sun, 01 Feb 1998 03:37:57 +0000
From: jarrid_gross@juno.com
To: EJMW@aol.com
Subject: Re: body panel seams
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:36:21 EST
On Sat, 31 Jan 1998 20:35:17 EST EJMW@aol.com writes:
>Finally I have my new valance.
>It came the other day from Best of British in Boulder CO. seams to
>be pretty
>good.
>What I need to know however is do I leave the seam on the side of the
>fender
>where it joins the valance showing or do I fill it. Same goes for the
>seam in
>the rear of the car where the quarter panel joins the rear valance
>there is a
>vertical seam. Shouold that be filled? with what? lead ? body seam
>caulk?
>By the way my car is a serII.
The factory correct method for hiding the seams on the SII was to lead
fill
the first inch or so of the the seam. The rest is just left open.
It originally was leaded, which is what I recommend that you
do as well. Bondo or any sealant will allow the paint to crack due to
flex and expansion.
The same was done both front and rear.
Jarrid Gross
_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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1 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 895706465.3230868-1 ; Wed, 20 May 1998 23:21:05 +0000
Date: Thu, 21 May 1998 09:25:14 +1000
To: alpines@autox.team.net
From: Agent 86 <anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU>
Subject: RE: regulators
>Now my problem is badly corroded axle and housing of the window raise
>handle (it must have a correct term, also!)
>
>larry
Larry,
I just repaired an absolutely &^#@ axle and housing of the window raiser,
on Dad's MkI Tiger.
Go to any wreckers of Rootes cars. Buy an old window winder plate, size
doesn't matter, but it needs to be in good condition. Remove the winder
axle and housing from the plate, by drilling out the rivetts. The axle and
housing can be disassembled easily and the original seven tooth cog from
your (Alpine) winder should be put into the new housing with the rest of
the springs and cups etc. (My experience is that everything is the same
except for the cog which runs the winder, some have seven teeth others have
six. On my replacement the six tooth cog still wound the window but didn't
really fully lock in, so I swapped the seven tooth gear from the original
back in.)
The new housing can be rivetted or spot welded into place. I used monel
rivetts.
If it sounds confusing don't worry. Once you have the replacement in front
of you everything will become clear.
Total cost $AUS20 (~$US 12) for the repair.
Now I have windows which wind up and down and lock into place like a brand
new car.
Anthony.
¬Received: from newmarket.imag.net [204.244.225.33] by in2.ibm.net id 898789538.80638-1 ; Thu, 25 Jun 1998 15:45:38 +0000
From: "Jay Laifman" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jun 1998 08:23:00 -0700
Subject: Rootes Paint
I recently learned of a place called Tower Paints, in Wisconsin. They have
all the Rootes paints and will sell you a spray can of whatever color you
want simply by calling them (800) 779-6520, and giving them the Rootes
paint code. I just did this for Color 106 - Commodore Blue. I received
the can in about a week, and sprayed a card. It kind of felt like Indiana
Jones discovering some long lost manuscript - just too easy.
I am going to bring up the card I painted to Tiger's United to compare it
to "Hobbes". Hobbes was originally Commodore Blue from the factory, and
they used an uncovered spot on the car to match it. So I will let you know
next week how close the colors are (assuming Joe's painter matched it
well). If the match is good, I will probably just have my local guy use
the spray can to match it with his paints.
My dad just did the same for your color 86, and painted his car. I forget
if he used the Tower version, or a slightly darker one that a local shop
had. He will be at TU too. So, you can see the color there, if you will
be in the neighborhood.
The whole thing cost about $12.
Jay
+1Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 906393970.66346-1 ; Mon, 21 Sep 1998 16:06:10 +0000
From: "John Crawley" <johnc@nait.ab.ca>
To: Colin Cobb <cobmeister@zianet.com>
Tigers Mailing List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 1998 10:17:18 -0600
Subject: Re: 'Beam tops - Installation, Long Post
Soft Top Installation
For those of you that have great manual dexterity, lots of patience and are
truly crazy do-it-your-selfers I post this method of top installation. For
those of you that are not so inclined I include the same instructions at no
extra cost as you may wish to supply these to the upholstery shop that you
choose to install your top. I do not profess to be a qualified upholster
but I do have some knowledge as my sister owns a upholstery shop. She did
not help with this installation but I used the principals that she taught
me. I INSTALLED a Robins top PURCHASED FROM CAT.
This may or may not be the correct way to install TIGER "weather equipment"
but it did work for me. YOU TAKE YOUR CHANCES IF YOU FOLLOW THIS!
READ this ALL BEFORE you start. The entire top may be fitted with glue and
duct tape to ensure that you know what you are doing BEFORE you punch any
holes. Practice FIRST.
Sandblast and paint the top-bows or finish them by industrial plating
before you start.
1. Adjust the tension rods. (See following)
2. Adjust the Top-bow webbing (see following)
3. Ensure that the Top-bow pivots (on the top of the B posts) are adjusted
and function perfectly. Check that the top-bow side-window surround
fits the side windows when they are in the up position. The thin metal
pieces that the top pivots on are the most delicate part of the top
assembly. If they are bent the top will not fit the side windows. If
1,2,3 are not done properly you will never get the top to fit. Your
side glass must also be correctly adjusted in the door to ensure that
they do not lean too far in or out.
4. Place the new top over the top-bows. Align the front cross seam over
the non-folding, front top-bow. The rear cross seam should line up over
the rear, folding, cross-bow if the top-bow web is correctly fitted.
5. The vertical seam at the rear of the side window openings should line
up with the vertical post of the top bow. The seam at the bottom of the
top should touch the body of the car on both sides at this point. If
not, center the top.
6. Replace the Velcro on the top bow stays if required. Use book binders
tape or duct tape to hold the hood on to the Velcro (Remember Velcro
sticks best if it is rubbed down several times). Do not leave this tape
on for more than a few hours or the glue will mark the top
7. Tape the Top-bow-to-Windscreen rubber to the top of the windscreen..
Now tape the top to the chrome of the wind screen surround.
8. Use GEL TYPE contact cement on the top-bow uprights and then on the top
to glue the vertical seam to the upright. GEL contact cement will not
melt the plastic that the top is made of. It also will not string out
and get all over everything and it will clean off. Let both sides dry
and then make contact. Do not bunch holes for the screws that hold this
area on to the top bows at this time. It is essential, though, that the
top be tight from side to side, over the top bows.
9. Brush contact cement on the rear cockpit cowling and on the rubber
edging that finishes the cockpit. Attach the edging to the car after
both surfaces are dry. If the rubber trim is new use a white marker on
the rubber to pin point the screw holes in the rear cowling metal. If
you are re-using the rubber, line the screw holes up with the screw
holes in the metal. You may now put a screw in each end of the rear
trim, pulling gently outwards form center on each side.
10. From inside the car pull the rear of the hood back - at the center (not
too hard as it is better to be loose than too tight). Locate the center
hole in the aluminum trim and screw through it and the top into the
center screw hole in the rear cowl. this is the first hole that you
will put into the new hood and your stomach will tie into knots here.
11. Check that the hood fits correctly at the back. The flap that contains
the snap and the "Lift-a-dot" must fit flat on to the car body. The
rear edge of this flap, were it is sewn to the hood, should just meet
the car body.
12. Check the fit over the cross bows. It should be tight. Install the lift
a dot on each side now.
13. Install the rear snap pulling gently back on the flap against the lift
a dot. If your top is properly installed you will not have to pull down
only back. This is the secret to having a properly fitting TIGER top
with no wrinkles in the side panels.
14. Now go back to the inside rear and begin working from the center
outward on alternate sides, screwing the rear trim to the body. As you
do this pull gently down and away from center. Remember that you are
only pulling against the binders tape at the front. You may pull harder
towards the sides as this must be a good fit for the top to be tight.
Check the outside fit as you put in each screw. Be sure to see that
your tape has not pulled free at the front. You do not want wrinkles to
develop either.
DO NOT screw the inside shorter side trim on at this time.
15. Now work on the leading edge. Pull the top tight and re-tape working
from the center outward to each side. Run long pieces of tape from the
hood down to the windscreen. Now mark the top with masking tape where
it crosses the leading edge of the peak rail. Also mark the center of
the top with masking tape and with a second piece mark the center of
the peak rail. You will have to remove some of the binders tape to do
this.
16. Now unsnap the top clamps that hold the peak rail to the windscreen
remove all the binders tape and fold the tension rods upwards. At this
point you may want to tape the side stays into their retaining pins so
that the whole thing does not collapse on you. Spread GEL TYPE contact
cement on the underside leading edge of the peak rail and on the front
1 inch of the underside of the top. Be sure to cover the top with paper
before you do this so that you do not get any glue on it. Let this
dry. Now attach the top to the peak rail starting at the point that you
marked as center. The masking tape that you marked the leading edge of
the peak rail should just roll under the peak rail leading edge. Press
the glued top edge into place working from the center outwards and
pulling tight as you go. Be sure to work the top well up into the under
side curve of the peal rail.
17. You may now snap the peak rail back onto the windscreen. The top
should at this point be a snug fit with no wrinkles nor loose spots.
You may adjust the fit at the front by repeating step 16.
18. Adjust the fit at the sides by repeating step 8 if required. Wind the
side windows up and make sure that they fit. The screws and trim may
now be installed on the uprights.
19. The back fit may be adjusted by removing the rear trim screws and
pulling downwards and from side to side in order to take up any slack
or to eliminate any wrinkles. Remember I said in #10 that it is better
to be slack here than to be too tight. NOW is the time to take up the
slack. Any holes previously punched in the back edge will be lower
than the new holes and will not cause a problem. You may find that all
fits well and no further adjustment is necessary. I mostly give this
caution so that you do not pull too hard in step #10 and pull the top
out of position.
20. At this point you can now let the work rest a while. Let the car get
cold in the evening. Let the sun shine on it. Drive it a bit. I put 300
miles on my Tiger in pouring rain and the front glue held but I do not
recommend this as a test.
21. Once you are
sure of the fit remove the rubber that you taped on to top of the
windscreen and install it onto the bottom side of the peak-rail.
22. Now all that remains is to secure the short side trim to the rubber
trim that finishes the cockpit. This trim does not hold the top it only
holds the rubber in place. Remember that the top in this area must be
slack for the top to fold down when it is finished. The piece of the
top that hangs down is simply held to the edge of the car by a clip.
Several "alligator clips with the handles removed can be used for this
of the originals are missing.
This is the area that most people including professional
upholsters screw up. It seems logical to pull the top tight under the
short trim pieces and screw it down. You will find that the top will
not fold if you do this and you end up with unwanted holes in the top.
The purpose of these flaps is to guide the water that leaks in into the
drain holes behind the B pillar. Be sure these drain holes are clear.
Top Bows
The top bows of a Tiger are strange things indeed. Their stability depends
upon two blocks of plastic holding two thin rods from moving laterally. The
two rods are called tension rods. They pivot upwards from the top rails and
insert into the "Peak rail" (That part of the top that clamps on to the
windscreen).
These tension rods can be a real pain. As they are part of the "weather
equipment" they are very prone to rust. If you have a set that are free of
rust and the adjustments are able to move with no trouble you are home free
but most that I have seen have long ago given up the ability to move. These
have very narrow threaded ends on them and are easily broken when you try
to make the tension adjustment. Once broken they are expensive and
difficult to repair so treat them with care.
Tip: rather than adjust them with the screw ends bent the rod body a bit. A
small bend in this area will enable the end of the tension rod to be at the
correct angle to the hole in the peak rail. This angle is a more critical
adjustment then the length of the rod. Try this slight bend before trying
to lengthen or shorten the tension rod as it may save you a difficult
repair.
Top Bow Webbing
The webbing that goes between the top bows is critical for a good fitting
top. This webbing spaces the folding top bow and the peak rail in relation
to the fixed top bow. It also takes some of the sag out of the center of
the top. The soft top has two seams across it and these seams must line up
with the top bows for proper fit. Because of this the length of the webbing
is critical to a good fit for your soft top. If you are having a upholstery
shop install your new top be sure to have this adjustment made before the
top is installed as the old webbing stretches and is probably deteriorated.
You can easily do this part yourself by taping the new soft top into place
and installing new webbing to fit the top.
Tip: Use a black seat belt, with the ends removed, as replacement webbing.
The nylon will not stretch nor will it deteriorate with age and exposure to
the weather. It is the same width as the original cloth webbing and the
black looks just perfect against a black soft top.
Well good luck and
Godspeed
Jc
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in6.ibm.net id 913999256.104374-1 ; Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:40:56 +0000
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: <CGBSenior@aol.com>, <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: window rattle
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1991 08:37:08 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
Most of the rattles in doors come from stuff that has dropped in the bottom
of the door or loose screws. remove the door panels roll the windows up and
dig around in the bottom of the door....Usually whatever falls to the bottom
came out of somewhere in the door and has to be replaced. usually the rear
window channel felt works loose and falls to the bottom, leaving the rear
of the glass resting loosely against a steel channel (RATTLE). check your
front window channel too...replace if disintegrated and then lubricate all
the window mechanism moving joints. Check the bottom window stop cushions to
make sure they are still good and finally...adjust the window channels so
that the window remains snug in them both rolled up and rolled down. Good
Luck
-----Original Message-----
From: CGBSenior@aol.com <CGBSenior@aol.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 8:17 AM
Subject: window rattle
>Over the years I have stopped all the rattles and squeaks in my SIII. The
only
>thing left is the windows. When rolled down, they rattle when when I hit a
>bump. Before I spend hours at the unpleasant task of finding the rattle I
>would like any words of words of wisdom that may be offered. Also, if
anyone
>has a shifter boot ring (the chrome thing that holds the boot in place)
they
>would like to sell let me know.
>
>I would also like to related a quick story. My brothers owns a ' 71
porsche
>911 which had sat in his garage for a year without being driven. I really
>liked the car so I thought that I might buy it and sell my Alpine. My
brother
>was ready to be rid of it and suggested I take it home and drive for a
while.
>I go it started and gave it a tune up. It's just a Beetle with two extra
>cylinders. I then drove it on weekends for about two months. It handles
like a
>skate and reaches 120 mph in no time at all. But, I found out that even
>though my Alpine's handling is only OK and the acceleration is weak at
best, I
>enjoy driving it more. I love the challenge of driving it on mountain roads
>and 90 mph in the Alpine is just as scary as driving 120 mph in the
Porsche.
>Plus in the Alpine people wave at me, they give me the thumbs up instead of
>the finger, and when I stop for gas kids say "Cool car". In the Porsche I
>just annoyed people. I kept the Alpine. Crazy, but true!
>
>Chris in Georgia
>
>
œ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 914948498.513784-1 ; Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:21:38 +0000
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Russell Maddock" <rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au>,
"Alpine List" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Windscreen frame
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 1991 08:31:17 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
When replacing windshield frames I use super caulk strip that comes in the
shape of a large string and is wound in a circle in a flat box. I also cut
new angled rubber spacers to put under the main outboard corners of the
windscreen on which I can adjust the tension and the rake of the windshield
to match the fwd qtr windows on the doors. It is also a good idea to use
self locking nuts (nylon insert type) on the outer posts so that once you
get the proper fastener tension and rake it will not work loose and cause
squeaks and rattles. On herbeam the windshield worked loose after 50,000
miles and was the cause of my mystery dashboard noise. The rubber inserts
were still good but body flex had caused the outer nuts to loosen,
consequently being replaced with self locking nuts it won't happen again.
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Maddock <rmaddock@petrie.hotkey.net.au>
To: Alpine List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 3:53 PM
Subject: Windscreen frame
>According to one of the Rootes Service Bulletins in my copy of the SAOC's
>Alpine Guide, windscreen rake should be adjusted by packing under the
>windscreen frame with something called "Glasticord" sealer. Anyone know
what
>this is or of a substitute?
>
>Russ Maddock
>Brisbane, Australia
>
>
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:21:08 -0800
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: "James E. Pickard" <geowiz@www.worldnet.att.net>
"'Alpine's Peak'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: keys
Jim,
I'll give you the best information I have, meaning the only
information I have. My ignition key is "triangular" in
shape, and works the ignition AND the doors. It says
"Rootes" and a serial number on one side, and "Made in
England" and "L & F" on the other. The trunk key, on the
other hand, says "MADE IN ENGLAND" and "UNION" on one side,
and on the other side "WILMOT" runs down one side, "BREEDEN"
runs down the other, and a serial number is in a 'cartouche'
below the hole.
Most of my previous English cars, which I owned new, had
keys that said "UNION", and looked very much the same.
Perhaps a source for MG, Jaguar, Healy, Triumph, etc. parts
would have the same blanks.
The C.A.T. Shop Notes book, available to members, lists a
manufacturer named "Taylor" key blank R68W as a correct
fit. If your key is REALLY worn, the locksmith better not
use the 'tracer' method of making you a replacement, or
he'll end up making you a brand new worn key. He needs the
code number and the translation into the correct profile.
At the very least, he should measure the wear on the lock
pins, which may also be a problem. No notes in the TE/AE
Tech Tip Manual on this subject.
Good luck,
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
‡ Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 919815353.99596-1 ; Wed, 24 Feb 1999 00:15:53 +0000
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 17:13:27 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 19:09:09 -0500
From: "jumpin'jan" <servaij@cris.com>
Organization: SSR Designs "Helmet Graphics For Racers"
To: Kevin Meek <kevnmeek@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Color sand and polish?
Kevine,
You probably need about three grit size sandpaper (600, 1200, and
1500). For runs, I use 400 (using a block on flat surfaces) then 1200,
then further sand with 1500. For dust, start using 1200 (w/block), but
if your sanding too much, then use the 600 on the next dust particle,
then 1200/1500. The 1500 sandpaper is so fine, that it feels like a
paper surface (very hard to feel the abrasive with your fingers). You
can start rubbing out the scratches with your compound that is designed
clearcoat, and these are the micro-fine compounds. Your paint will
require a more courser compound, else you will be rubbing too much. Buy
your materials from an automotive paint supplier, because they will help
you select the right products and their product lines (3M for example)
are a much higher quality product than the stuff from Wal-Mart and auto
stores. I hope than helps.
Jan
P.S. If you rub that finish without a power buffer, you will develop
some fantastic arm muscles.
______ ______ _______
/ ____/ / ____/ / ___ /
/ /___ / /___ / /__/ / _| _ _ . _ _ _
/___ / /___ / / __ _/ (_|_(/_ /_)_|_(_|_| )_/_)
___/ / ____/ / / / \ \ _|
____/ /_____/ /_/ \_\http://mall.turnpike.net/~servaijm
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in6.ibm.net id 920382740.123804-1 ; Tue, 02 Mar 1999 13:52:20 +0000
Tue, 2 Mar 1999 06:50:49 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 06:52:15 -0600
From: Ron Tebo <tebomr@cadvision.com>
To: Timothy Beloney <TBeloney@Wyse.com>
Subject: Re: tryin' to get a nut
Timothy Beloney wrote:
> I took off the front bumper and was replacing the mounting bolts on the car
> when I noticed I had a problem. One of the nuts that is just above the jack
> slots came off and is stuck inside the "frame". It seems that it should be
> welded in place to prevent this. The metal (where the hole for the bolt is)
> wraps around to cover the tube and appears to be welded to the other side,
> which means I can't reach the nut to put it in place. Am I going to have to
> play welder to get it out or otherwise in place? If I start moving the car
> without securing this nut it will probably be lost (and clanking) forever.
>
> I hope this is a clear description.
>
> Tim Beloney
> VAR Development Manager
> Wyse Technology
> www.wyse.com
> tbeloney@wyse.com <mailto:tbeloney@wyse.com>
> 510.749.9432 (phone)
> 510.714.2067 (cell/pgr)
Tim:
I have fixed several like this, and there are at least two ways to go.
Unfortunately, you probably are going to need to remove the valence to get at
things, and you do need a "stick" or "MIG" welder to complete the repair.
To get the nut , you can try the claw that Sergio recommended, or a magnetic
(cylinder magnet) tool, or, you may be able to hook it with a bent piece of
wire. If all these fail, and you can see the nut, you can use a welding rod to
reach it and apply a high welding current briefly (by switching your machine on
and off) This will fuse the rod to the nut without arcing (the flux will
insulate the part of the rod going through the hole, but don't do the threads!)
1) Once you have the nut, you can use a small bolt of the type used to hold
things to a hollow wall or door to hold it in place, while you drill 2 or more
holes in the perimeter of the hole in the frame (This is better done first, but
will be wasted effort if you don't get the nut) Then use your stick or mig
welder to fill in the holes (use high setting in order to burn through into the
nut). Use the required size tap to clean out the threads ( the nut will "upset"
because of the heat) and you are done.
2) Before you try for the nut, look at both sides of the frame member. You
should see a short lap weld on one side that can be easily ground away with a
Dremel tool. Once this is removed, the flap over the end of the frame member
can be bent back, giving you easier access to the nut. The nut (or a new one)
can be clamped on and welded in this position and the flap is bent back and
welded and you're done (except for tapping!).
Hope this helps.
Ron Tebo
tReceived: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 922733566.151424-1 ; Mon, 29 Mar 1999 18:52:46 +0000
[1-800-745-2747 The Concentric Network]
Errors-To: <servaij@cris.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 13:48:24 -0800
From: "jumpin'jan" <servaij@cris.com>
Organization: SSR Designs
To: Jerome Yuzyk <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: Carnival Red
Everyone with Carnival Red,
I just want to concur with Jerome's research on the best match of
Carnival red to modern paint formulas. I came to the same conclusion on
using the DuPont RS628N: SpectraMaster Red, using the "ChromaPremier"
Single Stage (SS) resin (to get the original lacquer/enamel look). If
you are looking for another alternative, the Porsche "Guards Red" (or
now referenced as "Indian red" Porsche '73, LM3A/61, 42715A Centari,
Acrylic Enamel) is also very close (could be the same). I have sprayed
both and the difference (if any) is very slight (considering these both
were mixed and not factory packed). I think most restorers and owners
are using the single stage chemistry (on older cars)to avoid getting the
new car "wet look" (basecoat/clearcoat two-stage material). The above
inforamtion is located at Jerome's web page
http://www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam/section/i_t_reb1.htm
Keep up the good work Jerome...
Jan Servaites
~Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in2.ibm.net id 932527689.74834-1 ; Wed, 21 Jul 1999 03:28:09 +0000
Tue, 20 Jul 1999 21:27:11 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 19:57:45 +0000
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
To: Brian Jones <bj@tmb.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Job?
Brian Jones wrote:
>
Can anyone recommend a really good painter in the LA area. I'd like a
"very close to show quality" paint job, but I definitely would like to
spend less than $1000.00. Is this reasonable?? The body's in great
shape. I'm in Burbank.
Brian,
Define "very close to show quality".
Some of the people on this list have paid several thousand dollars for
very good paint jobs. Show quality jobs would more likely go for more
than 4 thousand, depending on many factors, and will more probably be
higher.
I have a suggestion, there is a pretty good bb regarding auto painting @
http://www.autobodystore.com/abs-bin/config.pl?index
If you are willing to read up on the topics there in the archieves you
will find several "I want to paint my __________, and only have $xxx
dollars to spend, but want a top quality job" Some of the responses are
pretty informative.
Or, you can get a pretty good education by going and getting a few
quotes. There are many variables to pricing the job, some examples:
1. strip the existing paint ? (you are likely to want this done), cost?
maybe $500 to $1200 to dip (strip) or "media blast" and prime or to sand
off the old paint off of the unibody. Costs can vary widely. Media
blasting is just like sand blasting, only a "media" is substituted for
sand (plastic beads, baking soda, walnut shells) which doesn't lead to
sheet metal warping like sand blasting can sometimes do.
2. Who strips the car prior to paint striping? If it is you, then you
don't pay the shop rates for someone to do this, but then you incur the
liability of reassembling the parts and potentially damage the new
paint.
3. change of color? if yes, then there are many more areas that must be
painted with a corresponding increase in the labor.
4. quality of paint ? basic acrylic enamel ?. lower cost, but still
might be in the $200 to $300 cost for materials. the cost goes up from
there. Choosing a high quality urethane paint may run the cost for the
material alone up into the $500 to $700 range and up.
5. quality of body work? Here is where you will probably really be in
all over the body, not counting the obvious "crunchs". To make the body
work capable of supporting a pretty good, glossy paint job, the body
work is performed in a series of steps where the body work (bumping,
welding, filling) is first done, the car is primered, a contrasting mist
coat is sprayed on, then "block sanding" is done to reveal high/low
spots. If there can not be sanded flat, then a little more work is done,
reprime& contrast mist the affected areas until they are flat enough.
This is not rocket science, but it does take some aquired skill and
time. ... oh yeah, most all cars have hidden damage, something like
rust, or a previous repair, that is not visible until the job begins.
6. The actual spraying of the car (once all of the above is done) goes
relatively quickly, however you are likely to want the car wet sanded
and polished once done and that adds more labor.
Once you go to a few shops and get a few quotes I think that you will be
in a good position to estimate the quality/cost trade.
Not to sound too discouraging, but I doubt that you can find a "close to
show quality" paint job for $1000.00. The last time that I looked, the
cheapest paint job in the LA area was going for several hundred dollars
(maybe around $400 ?). For this price you get a "scuff and shoot" type
of job. Nothing is removed from the car (not bumpers, door handles,
antennas, headlights, taillights, badges,.. nothing). The car is
washed, scuffed with something like large scotchbrite pads, masked, then
the paint is shot. The paint is a stocked color (you get to choose one
of ?8? colors) then the car is baked, the masking is removed and you are
done (no polishing).
Oh yeah, another thing. People who want to get their car painted tend
to be a real pain in the rear about costs (no big surprise there) and
negotiate the price down as far as they can, nearly at the cost line for
the shop. So don't be too surprised if the shop keeps stopping work on
your car so that they can work on insurance work, which is paid at a
book rate and is much more lucrative than repainting a car for a walk in
customer.
If you don't mind, I would like hearing about what you find.
-Roger
îReceived: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in1.prserv.net id 937797715.860512-1 ; Mon, 20 Sep 1999 03:21:55 +0000
Sun, 19 Sep 1999 21:21:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: CMeinel464@aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 23:21:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Hardtop Colors
To: kasl100@navix.net
Brent,
Hardtops when order as a factory built along with the car could be body
color, but most came in either black or white. All Series III, IV and V GT's
would be body color. If ordered as a dealer option, they would be either
black or white only.
Hope this helps.
Curt
Classic Sunbeam
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