Jerome's Sunbeam Pages
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Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 15:31:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Meek <kevnmeek@netcom.com>
To: Mark Kenger <mjkenger@srp.gov>
Subject: Re: Advice Wanted
On Thu, 14 Sep 1995, Mark Kenger wrote:
> Looking for some tips on carpet and it's subsequent installation into my
> Series V. Anyone compared the "budget" versions to the high dollar ones?
> Snap down vs. glue down? Extra insulation?
I bought my Tiger carpeting from the person who makes it for
SS and paid extra for the nylon "Wilton Wool" imitation.
According to her, it is well worth the $75 extra. Some
pieces glue down while other pieces snap. I'm happy with
their quality and appearance.
> Also need to replace the dash
> pad and windshield rubber. I'm planning on buying all this stuff from
> Sunbeam Specialties. So far, from what I've read, it's the place to shop.
When you get the dash pad, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!!! I didn't
get them with my first pad, which is why I had to buy a
second. They don't call that stuff contact cement for
nothing! If you follow the instructions, you should have
no problem. Regarding the windshield rubber, it probably
takes more time to clean off the manufacturing residue than
to install it! but otherwise it isn't too difficult...
............................................................
Kevin Meek (kevnmeek@netcom.com) Sunbeam Tiger B382002202
Santa Cruz, California Sunbeam Alpine SI B9011324
¹
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From: Tony Leeming <TLEEMING@city.nanaimo.bc.ca>
To: owner-alpines <owner-alpines@b17a_pn.b17a.ingr.com>
Subject: RE: Mouldings
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 08:03:00 PDT
----------
From: owner-alpines
To: alpine newsgroup
Subject: Mouldings
On August 10, 1995 23:41 Bill Lewis wrote
>I have been reassembling my Series II car and have it nearly completely
>restored. I have not been able to locate the door mouldings that but
>against the A post/dash. Sunbeam specialties doesn't carry them (at
>least not anything resembling the original). Any ideas on where I can
>find them or how to make my own mouldings.
Bill, I had the same problem as you - I don't think anybody
manufactures them. I ended up piecing mine together with glue and filler
then spraying them. The problem is that the clips that hold them in are not
reliable and I suspect most fell off as soon as the car left the showroom!!
I use heavy duty double sided tape to hold them in place as well as the
clips. As for a making your own, I think I would use 1/2 round wooden trim
with a matt black finish - Good Luck
Tony Leeming Nanaimo, Vancouver Island,
British Columbia, Canada. (tleeming@city.nanaimo.bc.ca.)
1963 Sunbeam Alpine Series 2 ( My Pine )
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 875547353.104468-1 ; Mon, 29 Sep 1997 15:35:53 +0000
From: "Jay Laifman"<Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 08:24:58 -0700
Subject: Seat Back Construction
Steve, I restored the cardboard/pressboard backing on my SV seats. They
were actually in pretty decent shape. It has been a while, so I'm not
exactly sure what you mean about where to bottoms meet. It is my
recollection that the bottom of the cardboard meets, but does not overlap
the metal plates on the bottom of the sides. I'll take a look tonight.
As an aside, I had a terrible time finding a suitable replacement
cardboard/pressboard. I ended up going to my local art supply store. They
had a thin sheet of cardboard and then and double sheet. Unfortunately the
thin was too thin and the double sheet was really too thick, but I went
with it anyway. I choose the thick one because the thin one would never
hold up to any use.
I steamed the edges to get it to curve. But, then that seemed to weaken
the cardboard where it was steamed, which really didn't recover when it
dried. So, I redid them using just a minimum of steam, and a lot of slowly
rubbing and bending the cardboard around the edge of the kitchen table.
The hardest part was trying to get the thicker cardboard to stay up against
the metal frame. I used the original pop rivet holes. If I had to do it
again I would have added additional holes.
Jay
ñ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 876880397.90414-1 ; Wed, 15 Oct 1997 01:53:17 +0000
Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 18:50:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Lewis <wrlewis@ucdavis.edu>
To: alpine newsgroup <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: seat belts
On Tue, 14 Oct 1997, Emily Gilbert wrote:
> having trouble with finding a place where I can order the safetry belts,
> though. If anyone can help with this I would highly appreciate it.
> Also, if anyone knows where exactly the shoulder part of the restraint
> should be anchored, I need to that advice, also.
I believe that I purchased period looking 3 point safety belts from either
Moss Motors or Victoria British. I did not get the retractable types as I
was trying to keep everything lookin period, but in retrospect, I think
that the retractable version would be a lot more convenient. On my series
II car, there were bolts on the wheel arch behind the back seats. These
had rusted to the capture nut that were welded inside the wheel wells. I
had to drill out the bolts and tap out the nuts to install the safety
harnesses. It wasn't too difficult, about 10 (root) beers. It was hot
that day.
Bill Lewis
J Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 877985519.135308-1 ; Mon, 27 Oct 1997 20:51:59 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: Rollbar plans
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 12:46:00 -0800
Jerome,
>Since I'm sending the Tomato in for beading, body and paint soon this
>winter, this is probably the best time to install a bar, with the
>interior gutted. Do you have a plan for your bar and list of materials?
Buy one that is available for the Alpine or Tiger.
They all work about the same,. but some fit beter than others.
"Autolite?" in Carlsbad Ca, USA makes a good bar, and has been
sold by others as thier "own" bar.
Be sure to back the mounting on the road side of the body with the
same size/shape backing plates to insure that the bar wont tear off
the body in a rollover.
Use grade 8, 3/8 inch bolts with locking nuts.
Dont use stainless, it cant possibly be grade 8.
Also, get highback seats, or fabiricate a good pad behind the seats
In the case of a rear end collision, your skull can be crushed by the
bar that was supposed to save your life.
Hope this helps.
Jarrid
ì Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 878059304.137354-1 ; Tue, 28 Oct 1997 17:21:44 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Rollbar plans
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:17:00 -0800
Jerome,
>The ones I've seen advertised have been "cosmetic only." I figured that
>I could get one made here in pipeline-land.
They have to say "cosmetic only" to thwart off legal ramifications in
case of injury or "gulp" death.
No MFG will certify that a roll bar is worthy to use as a "roll bar".
>So you drill 4 holes on either side of the box frame and clamp the bar
>onto that?
Try 14 holes.
4 rear right,4 rear left,3 front right,3 front left.
Then you make backing plates, then put bolts through the bar mounts,
car sheetmetal and backing plates,
The front two mounts will be difficult, "I had to use a body grinder to
cut a slot in a box in the front left mount."
Battery box area is also tough.
>How tall is the bar? I assume it attaches to the floor (not the deck)
>and can be attached to the face of the deck to resist forward motion.
It is just low enough to clear the hardtop.
It mounts to the area where a back seat would go.
The bar has lateral, and fore/aft support.
I have pulled the car with the top of the roll bar,
and it is very secure.
Jarrid
ð Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in10.ibm.net id 878832882.44526-1 ; Thu, 06 Nov 1997 16:14:42 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Agent 86 <anthonyr@aqua.civag.unimelb.EDU.AU>
Subject: RE: Cold and RPM/Speed
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 08:05:00 -0800
>I'm not sure about others but since I have a new speedo and cable I'll
tell
>you about mine. The needle sways/wobbles a small amount and fairly
slowly
>above about 55mph. What I put this down to is the way the odometer
counts.
>On my speedo (series II) the fractions of a mile only turn in discrete
>steps, and it takes about three steps to read 0.1 of a mile. On an open
>piece of road it is possible to watch the needle sway as the odometer
ticks
>on. So I put it down to that.
Anthony,
I think you have a pretty good description when the speedo
jumps, now heres why.
The Smiths/Jaeger speedo has two jewels. I think they are made of
saphire, bit thats not really important.
The speedo needle and disc are held tight in place by the tension of
the jewel in the driven magnet, and the jewel on the end the needle
end. As these jewels wear, or as the thrust in the driven magnet wears,
the speedo will begin to bounce, especially as the driven end moves
in and out due to the odometer load.
The whole assembly can be tightened up with a single screw
adjustment on the inside of the speedo.
The adjustement is pretty sensitive, and I dont have a procedure,
but if you take your time, and adjust little by little "not too tight",
you can test with a drill motor "in lieu of the speedo cable",
untill the action tightens up.
I have resurected 2 speedos that previously jumped around terribly,
so this can be a DIY.
Jarrid Gross
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in9.ibm.net id 878921549.37554-1 ; Fri, 07 Nov 1997 16:52:29 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, Sergio Dimarmo <wanderer@sure.net>
Subject: Re: speedo wobble
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 08:44:00 -0800
Sergio wrote,
>I had a problem with my Series V fuel and temp gauge until an old
Alpine
>friend told me that there is a voltage/current regualtor for the
>instruments. He said that this is supposed to keep the readings from
>fluctuating. You might want to check/replace it, I think I paid around
>$15.00 for mine....seemed to do the trick.
>
>Serg
>
>PS....I also have a jumpin' jack speedo
The early alpines "SI,SII, SIII?" cars came without regulator.
The battery voltage has a linear effect on the gauges.
On the later cars, many people change out the regulator with
a 7810 "10v" voltage regulator. They will last forever "almost",
and are not mechanical like the little thermal regulators.
Jarrid Gross
B Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 879883199.67994-1 ; Tue, 18 Nov 1997 19:59:59 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, CSIG)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'jerome@supernet.ab.ca'" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: rubber floors
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 15:02:46 -0500
I don't have any, not even in pieces. I have seen some, but those owners
weren't prepared to part with their remnants. They basically conform to
the floor panels, with ribbing going left to right making up two thirds
of the mat, the rest being smooth. I would say the rubber grade is
equivalent to a typical floor mat of any auto from the 60's. A few
Alpine owners have discussed reproduction, but it's never gotten off the
ground. Float out the question to the subscribers and see if anyone will
help.
scott
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jerome@supernet.ab.ca [SMTP:jerome@supernet.ab.ca]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 2:49 PM
> To: Scott.Christie@gecapital.com
> Subject: Re: rubber floors
>
> "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, CSIG)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com> wrote:
> > You're correct, and this is a battle I've been fighting for years.
> All
> > non-GT Alpines came with rubber floor mats instead of carpet. There
> were
> > individual pieces for each passenger,and individual pieces for
> behind
> > each seat. Unfortunately over time, these four pieces have
> disappeared,
> > and it is VERY RARE for anyone to have them. I have yet to find a
> > complete, usable set, and no one seems interested in reproducing
> them,
> > so for now we all have to settle for incorrect carpeted interiors.
>
> All I need then is the grade of rubber used, since I could use the
> carpet pattern. Would it be the same grade as, say, that used with
> commercial entryway mats? Can you send me a pattern that I could take
> to
> some local suppliers?
>
> --
>
> - J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca
> -
> - BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge
> -
> - Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam
> -
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 879869345.151834-1 ; Tue, 18 Nov 1997 16:09:05 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, CSIG)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'jerome@supernet.ab.ca'" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: rubber floors
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 11:12:12 -0500
You're correct, and this is a battle I've been fighting for years. All
non-GT Alpines came with rubber floor mats instead of carpet. There were
individual pieces for each passenger,and individual pieces for behind
each seat. Unfortunately over time, these four pieces have disappeared,
and it is VERY RARE for anyone to have them. I have yet to find a
complete, usable set, and no one seems interested in reproducing them,
so for now we all have to settle for incorrect carpeted interiors.
scott christie
series 3 alpine registry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jerome@supernet.ab.ca [SMTP:jerome@supernet.ab.ca]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 1997 2:05 AM
> To: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: rubber floors
>
> I've read in a couple places that Alpines originally shipped with
> rubber, not carpet, floors. This has a certain oddball appeal to me,
> and
> I'm wondering whether anyone can elaborate on what kind of rubber, and
> why someone wouldn't want to use rubber.
>
> --
>
> - J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca
> -
> - BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge
> -
> - Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam
> -
n Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 879949554.93722-1 ; Wed, 19 Nov 1997 14:25:54 +0000
From: "Christie, Scott E. (CAP, CSIG)" <Scott.Christie@gecapital.com>
To: "'jerome@supernet.ab.ca'" <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: rubber floors
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:27:16 -0500
> So 2/3 of the front mats were ribbed and the rest (back ones too?)
> were
> smooth? Before you said there were four pieces (fore/aft each seat).
> How
> did these cover the hump and tunnel?
Well now you made me pull out the parts list and actually look
at the pictures, since my memory is next to worthless. The mats that
cover the front floor boards are 2/3rds ribbed, with a smooth section
basically where your feet are. They are molded to fit the contours of
the footwells, and both run partways up the firewall. Each one has been
fitted to run under the seat halfway, which means they have channels cut
into them to fit around the seat channels (make sense?). The back pieces
again are ribbed like the front, with the part running up to the
top of the "back seat" smmoth. These are also cut to fit around the seat
channels on the floor.
>
> I could see that the old mats, snapped down, would trap floor-eating
> moisture. I would think that putting rubber over glued-down underlay
> would handle this.
I believe this was the problem, that over time they would tear
and rot and people just threw them away. They would snap down at the
corners over the jute floor covering (also a major rotter and moisture
carrier). The hump and tunnel were carpeted.
>
0 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 879960767.87978-1 ; Wed, 19 Nov 1997 17:32:47 +0000
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 09:31:42 -0800
From: "McDonald, Allan" <Allan.McDonald@gems4.gov.bc.ca>
Subject: FW: Rubber Floors
To: "'alpines@autox.team.net'" <alpines@autox.team.net>
<c=CA%a=TELECOM.CANADA%p=BCGOVT%l=BLAZE-971119173142Z-43465@pipe.bcsc.gov.bc.ca>
Your description is fairly close to the stock "rubber carpet" that came
in my Series II, with one exception - each side was a single piece,
running from the top of the firewall and clipped to the bottom of the
"back seat" pad. The bottom was formed to fit into the recesses beneath
the seats. The transmission tunnel was carpeted.
Allan McDonald Allan.McDonald@gems4.gov.bc.ca
Nursery & Seed Operations Branch
Phone: (250) 387-8945 Fax: (250) 356-0472
>----------
>From: Jay Laifman[SMTP:Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, 1997 November, 19 8:01AM
>To: alpines@autox.team.net
>Subject: Rubber Floors
>
>
>Yes, the Alpine did originally come with just rubber floor mats. I don't
>know about the GTs or the Tigers. I had my original mats, and might still
>be tucked away somewhere - what's left of them. They were two pieces, one
>that went from the front lip of the back shelf to the front of the hole
>where the seats rest, the other from the top of the foot well back down and
>around the hole where the seats rest and then back a few inches. They
>had/have horizontal ribs about 3/16"-1/4" thick, and a thicker flat pad
>where the feet rest. I think the front parts also had about a 3/4" wide
>band all the way around the boarder (I could be wrong on this part). They
>really fit will. Unfortunately, they ultimately started breaking along
>some of the ribs. I think I saved them for a future pattern, but they may
>have been so far gone that I let them go.
>
>Jay
>
>
>
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 879955876.110922-1 ; Wed, 19 Nov 1997 16:11:16 +0000
From: "Jay Laifman"<Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 08:01:14 -0800
Subject: Rubber Floors
Yes, the Alpine did originally come with just rubber floor mats. I don't
know about the GTs or the Tigers. I had my original mats, and might still
be tucked away somewhere - what's left of them. They were two pieces, one
that went from the front lip of the back shelf to the front of the hole
where the seats rest, the other from the top of the foot well back down and
around the hole where the seats rest and then back a few inches. They
had/have horizontal ribs about 3/16"-1/4" thick, and a thicker flat pad
where the feet rest. I think the front parts also had about a 3/4" wide
band all the way around the boarder (I could be wrong on this part). They
really fit will. Unfortunately, they ultimately started breaking along
some of the ribs. I think I saved them for a future pattern, but they may
have been so far gone that I let them go.
Jay
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 886489988.57386-1 ; Tue, 03 Feb 1998 07:13:08 +0000
From: HERBEAM@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 01:57:46 EST
To: japeterson@earthlink.net, tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Seats
I have a set of Fiero Seats for my Modified Alpine and Chose them because they
will fit very well, are much lower to the floor than the stock seat so your
position is better and they will hold you in place during cornering. Another
asset is that they can be placed closer to centerline because of the design
resulting in a more direct position behind the steering wheel resulting in a
shorter reach for the shifter. Also, some seats like mine have speakers in the
headrests which are now standard equipment on some luxury
convertibles..........I would try a set, especially if you can buy them at
Pick A Part for $25 a pr. HERBEAM SENDS
# Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 887325119.86486-1 ; Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:11:59 +0000
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 18:13:30 +0000
From: Larry Paulick <larry@netkonnect.net>
To: Jerome Yuzyk <jerome@supernet.ab.ca>, alpines@autox.team.net,
tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: steering cowl refinishing
Jerome, I have sanded, buffed, painted, and it depends on the
condition of the part. If not really bad, it can be buffed, and the
color will not be new, but looks very good. If really bad, sand with
600 wet dry paper, then buff. Take time, not to loose contours of
part.
On the steering wheel where it cracks at the hub, I used PC-7 to fill
crack, sanded, primed, and painted. Looks very good.
Take your choice depending on the condition of the part, but take your
time, and as Dave said, if buffing, don't get it too hot, and clean
the buffing compound off often.
Have fun at doing this.
Larry
k Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 887311330.66530-1 ; Thu, 12 Feb 1998 19:22:10 +0000
From: DonBaby58@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 14:19:41 EST
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: steering cowl refinishing
In a message dated 2/12/98 9:54:37 AM, you wrote:
<<The 2-piece plastic cowl on my steering column has become brown-ish and
mottled. I presume it used to be black. Has anyone re-coated or buffed
these to make them black again?
--
- J e r o m e Y u z y k | jerome@supernet.ab.ca -
- BRIDGE Scientific Services | www.tgx.com/bridge -
- Sunbeam Alpine Series II #9118636 | www.tgx.com/bridge/sunbeam -
>>
In my Series V, I found the top half of the cowl to be discolored and dirty -
the bottom half was fairly clean and in excellent condition. After removal, I
noticed there was a plastic coating of some kind that was chipping off the top
half, but fairly intact on the bottom. I cleaned everything and I tried to
determine what I could use to match the top to the bottom - The bottom wasn't
a gloss finish by any means and besides I didn't want a high gloss look for it
anyway. I found a very light coat of a satin finish paint was a perfect match
- it has a nice sheen to it, and the paint is thin enough that it looks great
and not like it has actually been painted.
Don
Series V
b Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in6.ibm.net id 887324186.73986-1 ; Thu, 12 Feb 1998 22:56:26 +0000
(Netscape Messaging Server 3.01) with SMTP id 164
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 14:51:46 -0800
Subject: Re: steering cowl refinishing
Organization: Biola University
I had the exact same problem on my SV cowl. I painted mine with
semi-gloss black Krylon. I have found this paint to be the best in a
can. But I had trouble with the paint adhering to one of the pieces.
First I just tried sanding it with 220 sand paper. The paint still
began to lift as it dried. Finally I ended up sanding it more
thoroughly and applying a coat of primer. The results were excellent.
I can't say it doesn't look painted but it the nearly the next best
thing to new.
Christopher Albers
÷ Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 887326019.64026-1 ; Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:26:59 +0000
From: johnc@nait.ab.ca
To: Dave McDermott <dave.mcdermott@cusys.edu>
tigers@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 16:28:14 -0700
Subject: Re: steering cowl refinishing
Hi:
The best I have seen was sprayed flat black and then given a coat of gloss
urethane when dry. The end result looked close to the original plastic
finish. Sorry I do not have more details as I was only told how it was done
when I observed the car at a car show.
Godspeed
Jc
À Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 887346595.24542-1 ; Fri, 13 Feb 1998 05:09:55 +0000
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 23:09:40 -0600 (CST)
From: frodo4@ix.netcom.com (John Souders)
Subject: Re: steering cowl refinishing
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca (Jerome Yuzyk)
You wrote:
>
>The 2-piece plastic cowl on my steering column has become brown-ish
and
>mottled. I presume it used to be black. Has anyone re-coated or
buffed
>these to make them black again?
>
It is likely that the color can be restored with fine abrasive metal
polish. The plastic tends to oxidize much like metal.
John
Q Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 886698275.99650-1 ; Thu, 05 Feb 1998 17:04:35 +0000
From: EJMW@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 11:50:09 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: steering wheel restore
If the cracks are btween the layers of laminate you glue them and compress
until the glue sets. If the cracks are in solid wood I would recomend filling
with resin then painting the resin to match then give a good topcoat of
lacquer or if you cant spray use Marine spar varnish and sand with 220 between
coats
Good luck
Eric
'62 ser II
Q Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in4.ibm.net id 886698275.99650-1 ; Thu, 05 Feb 1998 17:04:35 +0000
From: EJMW@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 11:50:09 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: steering wheel restore
If the cracks are btween the layers of laminate you glue them and compress
until the glue sets. If the cracks are in solid wood I would recomend filling
with resin then painting the resin to match then give a good topcoat of
lacquer or if you cant spray use Marine spar varnish and sand with 220 between
coats
Good luck
Eric
'62 ser II
Ž Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in2.ibm.net id 886796500.76026-1 ; Fri, 06 Feb 1998 20:21:40 +0000
From: EJMW@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 15:21:16 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Re: steering wheel restore
I have used resorcinol two part resin glu by weldwood.
It is probobly the exact same glue used in the first place. Or better than
original.
If you plan to apply a spray finish I would recomend not using any product in
a spray can as the material itself is diluted by the propellant and if you can
spray with a gun try to find a clear laquer with UV inhibitors in it.
Good luck
Eric
'62 serII
6 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in3.ibm.net id 886882696.81342-1 ; Sat, 07 Feb 1998 20:18:16 +0000
From: EJMW@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Feb 1998 15:17:25 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Re: steering wheel restore
Spar varnish is a marine product.
When you purchase it try to find the clearest type.
Also you might try polyurythane for hardwood floors.
Don't use a water based product no matter what the guy says at home depot.
Also, they sell rubber restoring products at auto part stores. I would treat
the rubber before I do anything so it doesn't absorb polishing products for
the metal parts.
Do the wood last so you dont mess up your finish polishing the metal.
Make sure you let the wood sit at least over night between coats. You'll be
glad you did.
have fun
Eric
ý
Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in1.ibm.net id 887387396.54222-1 ; Fri, 13 Feb 1998 16:29:56 +0000
From: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS@UNIT.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: RE: steering cowl refinishing
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 08:28:00 -0800
Jerome wrote,
>The 2-piece plastic cowl on my steering column has become brown-ish and
>mottled. I presume it used to be black. Has anyone re-coated or buffed
>these to make them black again?
The original material (on the early cars at least) was Bakelite, which
was
always brittle, and becomes moreso with time. Mine was missing some
pieces from the corners due to years of abuse and was terribly oxidised
and pitted. I tried to get a better replacement, but found that these
were
hens teeth.
Ultimately, I decided to put my best effort into a restoration.
I used polyester resin and a small amount of bondo mixed, using
the resin's catalist (MEKP). The bondo maked the resin softer and
easier to deal with after it all dries. I filled the larger pits with
the
filler mix, and made sort of a mold around the edges of the cowling
to recreat the lost areas. I used jewelers files and other fine tools
to file out the details where I used the filler.
I then used automotive spot putty to fill the remainder of the pits
let is set for a few days (to fully degas the putty), then sanded
it all fine with 600 grit wet or dry.
I shot it all with black primer, sanded again with 600, then wiped
it down with a pre-paint grease removal fliud.
I shot the outside with flat black laquer.
Somehow the bakelite holds some oil or wax inside, because
I got some minor fisheyes.
After it all dried, I wet sanded out the fisheyes, and wiped it again
with the degreaser.
I shot it again with flat black laquer, then shot it with about 20 coats
of clearcoat laquer.
After the clearcoat dried, I rubbed it out with compound till it looked
like a mirror.
It was a lot of work, but it really looks good, and goes to show that
you can pollish a turd.
Sorry so windy.
Jarrid Gross
8 Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in5.ibm.net id 889111701.76292-1 ; Thu, 05 Mar 1998 15:28:21 +0000
From: "Spontelli, Ramon" <rs11@ElSegundoCA.NCR.COM>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: dash color
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 1998 07:25:55 -0800
> Could anyone recommend a good thin filler for the dents and scratches
> (mostly around the cigarette lighter)?
I've been working a dash for the Series II for a couple of weeks now.
It had three chunks of missing material round the mounting holes for the
lower trim piece, plus a thin crack from one hole up towards the hole
I used a two-part epoxy resin from JB Weld and it seems to have worked
really well. I used it to completely fill in the missing material
around the mounting holes. For the thin crack, I used the Dremmel tool
to cut a u-shaped channel the length of the crack on both sides of the
dash, then filled the channels with the JB Weld.
The stuff cured nicely, and sanded really smooth.
As an adhesion test, I smeared a dab of it on to a sound portion of the
dash, and after it cured I was not able to chip or pry it off--it had to
be sanded off.
Of course, time will tell, and it shouldn't take too long, as we intend
to start autocrossing the car real soon now.
Anybody else have any experience with JB Weld in this sort of situation?
Ramon
Ù Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 910584588.82058-1 ; Mon, 09 Nov 1998 04:09:48 +0000
From: tsmith@coresys.net
To: <RobCarpent@aol.com>
Subject: Re: The Insulation question.....
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:11:41 -0500
charset="iso-8859-1"
-----Original Message-----
From: RobCarpent@aol.com <RobCarpent@aol.com>
To: tsmith@coresys.net <tsmith@coresys.net>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: The Insulation question.....
>Your insulation tip sounds excellent. I suggest you post it to the list.
>Guys on the list appreciate ideas and hearing what others are doing. If I
>understand the material you used I presume it should be available at any
large
>buiders supply store. Next time I am at one I will take a look at what
they
>have.
>
>I have not done much for a couple weeks as it has been cold and I have had
>other obligations. Spring seems a long way off but I better get busy as I
>have plenty to do.
>
>Rob
>
Thanks Rob,
Rob and I have been discussing underbody restoration and undercoating among
other things. I have recently redone the clutch and drive shaft was
rebuilt. Have cleaned and undercoated and Rob is doing similar tasks during
his winter project. We were discussing insulating the drive train tunnel
louvered hood solution, went to the web site and checked it out, it was
aluminum ) I was considering buying some of the reflective insulating mat
from the V.B. catalog. It really gets hot in the cockpit in July in
Louisville. A friend said he had some ductwork insulation in his garage and
I was welcome to as much of it as I wanted. ( I think he cut me off about
6', and it is about 4' wide )
This stuff is a regular fiberglass insulation with a reflective, silvery
finish on one side instead of kraft paper like house type insulation. It's
about 2" thick. The way it is normally used is that the fiberglass
insulation is placed against the ductwork and the reflective surface is
exposed to the atmosphere. This reduces heat loss from the ductwork due to
the ambient temperature of the atmosphere outside the duct and it prevents
condensation from forming inside the duct. I used the principle in reverse
and had good results. I cut cardboard templates to contour to the tunnel
around the gearbox. I then cut the insulation the the outline of the
cardboard. I just duct tape (200 mph variety ) to tape the insulation
fiberglass side down to the cardboard. Then I taped the three card board
sections in place around the tunnel. Re-installed the carpet and reduced
the heat to the cockpit by at least 50% if not more. ( just when my blower
quit ) I insulated the firewall to the cockpit under the carpet in a
similar fashion, but did nothing under the floor carpets. (yet?) I did not
notice a significant reduction in noise. This is not a sound insulator. I
suppose it's available in the building supply places. I don't know the
price. (significantly cheaper than the 4' x 6' section I contemplated buying
from the catalog )
Just thought to pass on a tip.
Terry Smith
'67 Series V
Š Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in5.ibm.net id 915492788.200486-1 ; Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:33:08 +0000
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 18:23:03 -0500
From: "jumpin'jan" <servaij@cris.com>
Organization: SSR Designs "Helmet Graphics For Racers"
To: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
Subject: Re: alpine floor pan restoration
Scott,
If your near a PPG body shop supplier, I would use the DP epoxy primer
on your floor pan. I wouldn't spray it, but brush it on. From my
experience and others, one can't go wrong from using it. The only
problem, of using it in the winter, is applying it in a cold garage. I
would get some electric heaters, and maybe heat the underside of the
floor pan for a few hours or maybe just wait for warmer weather. It
comes in black, white, grayish-green, and I think red?. However, use the
402 activator with it which activates it for immediate use.
Jan
--
______ ______ _______
/ ____/ / ____/ / ___ /
/ /___ / /___ / /__/ / _| _ _ . _ _ _
/___ / /___ / / __ _/ (_|_(/_ /_)_|_(_|_| )_/_)
___/ / ____/ / / / \ \ _|
____/ /_____/ /_/ \_\http://mall.turnpike.net/~servaijm
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 917452877.646374-1 ; Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:01:17 +0000
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:58:12 -0700 (MST)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Alpines AutoX Team" <alpines@autox.team.net>,
"K. Patrick Wheeler" <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Seat restoration
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1992 07:52:10 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
The seats are fairly easy to re-upholster if you have the upholstery kits
pre fabricated. The hardest part is getting the seats apart (adjustment
plates for backs-they are some sort of Whitworth bolts that are near
impossible to get out!) I have upholstered many alpine seats as I have a
commercial sewing machine and one of my tricks to get a nice looking seat is
to sew in pulls to the front corners of the center of the seat and pull them
through the bottom so that the bottom of the seat conforms to the new foam
without relying on glue forever. I also replace the cardboard around the
back of the seat with sheet plastic that used to be old signs...consequently
they look good forever. The stock seats are great if you like
originality...definitely use series III up though...if you want some smaller
nonstock seats that are very comfortable (like recarro) then try a set of
Fiero seats. The headrests can be removed for originality or some of them
have stereo speakers in the headrest part(nice for a convertible) and they
are actually narrow enought that you can place them closer to the center
hump so that you actually sit in front of the steering wheel, not off to one
side like stock...As far as the frames go..I just wirebrushed mine and
painted with rustoleum ...you don;'t see the frame anyway..and go with new
foam pads, also padding all sharp edges in the front lowers..and be sure to
lube the seat tracks well so that the seats adjust easily....Good Luck with
your project
-----Original Message-----
From: K. Patrick Wheeler <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 6:51 PM
Subject: Seat restoration
>My PO has placed what I believe are Mustang seats in the car, although very
>nice and comfortable, they take up too much room, make it hard for me to
get
>in and out of the car, and are too far forward for my driving comfort as
I'm
>a bit taller than he was (and they are not original, eeek!). I've two
>Alpine seats and all the foam and covering to restore them, also courtesy
of
>the PO. Has anyone done this and any ideas on how to go about it, or is
>this something I should take down to a local upholsterer? I'm handy with
>needle and thread, but have no equipment other than that. One of the
frames
>is in excellent shape, the other is rusted and still has pieces of the
>original seat attached. I had thought of powder coating (there are three
>powder coaters within half a mile of me) but thought it might be overkill.
>Also thought of sandblasting the rusty frame, but was afraid I'd have
>nothing left when I was through.
>-Patrick
>SV, Richmond, CA
>
>
^
Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in3.ibm.net id 917465785.717802-1 ; Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:36:25 +0000
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:33:32 -0700 (MST)
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: pwheeler@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:32:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Seat restoration
Organization: Biola University
I rebuilt my seats. First I hot tanked them to get the glue off and
then I sandblasted them. They were then painted. All of the hardware
was replated with cadmium and the cover plates painted with aerosol
crinkle paint. I used the replacement parts supplied by Sunbeam
Specialties. The hardest part was getting the rubber diaphragm onto
the bottom (lots of muscle required). To install the foam rubber I
glued the backs where they met the frame (always glue both surfaces to
be adhered). I replaced the back cover with door panel board
(waterproof, black) from a local upholstery shop. I think I paid $5
covers come cut to fit. The only glue I used on their installation was
on tops of the cushion and inside of the covers where they meet
(basically where your butt & back go). On the bottoms I used a plastic
bead that's metal reinforced (can't remember what it's called) to
fasten the cover to the frames. It produced a very nice finished look.
I sent the back covers out and had velcro sewed onto the bottom so
that when I installed them I had a very nice finished closure at the
bottom that did not use glue. Using as little glue as possible will
enable me to remove the covers, should I ever need to, without damaging
them or any other part. I get the added bonus of a very clean and
professional look, and I did nearly all of it myself.
Christopher
u Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in7.ibm.net id 917569816.115440-1 ; Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:30:16 +0000
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:29:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:31:51 -0500
From: Tom Hill <tom.hill@worldnet.att.net>
To: "K. Patrick Wheeler" <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Seat restoration
I just completed the restoration of my Alpine seats. My original seats
frames were rusted to pieces (literally) so I bought some used seats
from Sunbeam Specialties. The upholstery and foam on the used seats
were useless so I ordered all the necessary diaphrams, foam and
upholstery from SS. I sandblasted the frames and discovered that one of
the sheet metal pieces to which the recliner spring attaches was in
pretty bad shape. I bought some sheet metal at Lowes and made the
replacement part. (it was the less complex of the two sheet metal
pieces) I painted the whole assembly with Rustoleum and began to
reassemble the seats. I encountered one significant gotcha. The levers
that lock the seat back cannot be reversed (the one from the left seat
cannot be used on the right seat). If you are assembling your seats and
notice that the lever is not pushing the lock into the gear on the seat
back, you have the levers reversed. I opted to have the kits installed
look absolutely great.
Good Luck,
Tom Hill
K. Patrick Wheeler wrote:
>
> My PO has placed what I believe are Mustang seats in the car, although very
> nice and comfortable, they take up too much room, make it hard for me to get
> in and out of the car, and are too far forward for my driving comfort as I'm
> a bit taller than he was (and they are not original, eeek!). I've two
> Alpine seats and all the foam and covering to restore them, also courtesy of
> the PO. Has anyone done this and any ideas on how to go about it, or is
> this something I should take down to a local upholsterer? I'm handy with
> needle and thread, but have no equipment other than that. One of the frames
> is in excellent shape, the other is rusted and still has pieces of the
> original seat attached. I had thought of powder coating (there are three
> powder coaters within half a mile of me) but thought it might be overkill.
> Also thought of sandblasting the rusty frame, but was afraid I'd have
> nothing left when I was through.
> -Patrick
> SV, Richmond, CA
§ Received: from ciao-intranet ([129.135.4.2]) by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
From: "Richard Atherton (Entex)" <a-richat@MICROSOFT.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net, "'Steve Van Ronk'" <glblitnpwr@nidlink.com>
Subject: RE: "New" Series V - week 7 (Dash)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 23:28:13 -0700
Since you used a solid piece of wood, warping is a distinct
possibility. One way to reduce this, is to add small "angle Iron"
pieces to the back of the dash board. Go across the grain because this
the direction of the warping. I've seem some beautiful walnut and
hardwood custom dash boards that looked fantastic, until they warped,
cracked and split. This is why Normally, a high grade of Marine
exterior plywood is used with a thin vaneer (sp) of the exotic wood
covering the plywood attached by a high grade Marine adhesive. Since
these LBC's sit out side, and even sometimes get wet on the inside, the
Marine materials are, imo, the best way to go durability, and longevity.
The solid dash may look slightly better in the beginning, but it will be
dam difficult to keep it that way. Good luck. Personally, while you
have all of the jigs already set up, I would build a second one out of
the Marine materials. This way, you have a backup unit for quick
replacement, should the warping ruin the solid one you just made.
Rich
> ----------
> From: Steve Van Ronk[SMTP:glblitnpwr@nidlink.com]
> Reply To: Steve Van Ronk
> Sent: Sunday, June 01, 1997 11:58 AM
> To: alpines@autox.team.net
> Subject: "New" Series V - week 7 (Dash)
>
> Greetings Folks,
>
> With all that Dash talk, I figured it was about time to give my latest
> progress report. After the great concentrated effort starting my
> restoration project, I now find myself in the "it takes how long it
> takes" phase. At last report, I had finished the interior prep,
> carpet
> installation, and new upholstery and was trying to get the right door
> window winder working. Those of you who followed my progress may
> remember that I too wanted to replace the old plastic-covered dash.
> After checking out the availability of wood-grained dash (Classic
> Sunbeam $345, <CLASSICSUN@AOL.COM>) and other options, I decided on
> building my own out of a solid piece of hardwood.
>
> Two weeks ago we had our annual hot rod and classic car show here in
> Sandpoint, Idaho and two Tigers showed up. One had the wood-grained
> dash from CS and it did look pretty good. Personally, I remain quite
> pleased with my decision to make my own, although it is a lot of work
> and requires some fairly good woodworking skills. I am using a piece
> of
> African Bloodwood, deep scarlet red in color with a nice grain
> pattern.
> The stock is 3/4" thick, which is quite a bit thicker than the
> original,
> thus requires some router work on the back side to fit the gages and
> switches. Another option would be to plane the whole plank down, but
> I
> decided against that just to maintain more strength in the dash. I
> used
> the old plastic dash as a pattern for the hole locations, then flipped
> it over to repeat the shape on the glove box side. This will give me
> a
> glove box door cut out of the panel as well. After tracing the
> pattern
> to the wood, I used a power jig saw to carefully cut the shape.
>
> Second step was to get the alignment of all the holes. After marking
> the templates, I used calipers to double check the dimentions and make
> sure the hole centers were all aligned correctly. You immediatly
> notice
> that the holes are not all in a straight line due to the curvature of
> the dash, so the must be aligned in a few distince "blocks". to get
> the
> centers of the larger gage holes, I traced the hole through the
> original
> dash pattern then located the exact center geometrically by using two
> chords of the traced circle, subdividing the chords, then running
> perpendicular lines to the chord to get their intersection at the
> exact
> center of the holes.
>
> Third step was to drill all the small holes for mounting to the car
> body
> and to attach the lower upholstered frame and the switch holes up to
> 5/8" diameter. These are easy because they are standard drill bits.
> Next comes the bigger holes which require hole cutting bits up to 4".
> I
> cut throuth the back side of the dash until the pilot bit came out the
> front side, then turned it over to drill out the rest of the way.
> This
> is to prevent splintering of the front side of the dash. All holes
> should be drilled on a drill press to guarantee precision and
> alignment.
>
> With all the holes drilled, next comes routing out the back side of
> the
> dash to get proper thickness for gages and switches. Also during this
> phase the heater and blower controls can be made. The bigger gage
> holes
> are easy. You simply use a router bit with a guide bearing on the
> lower
> tip and set it to the thickness determined by calipers on the old
> plastic dash. Then rout a thin indentation just enough for the gage
> mount bracket to slip into. The switches are a little more trick, but
> not too bad. Since the body of the switch must also be recessed, you
> must rout a slot in the back that crosses the whole block of switch
> holes and spreads out enough to easily set each switch. Then the most
> trickey part is the heater controls. These need slots that go clear
> through the front of the dash. The best way not to lose control of
> your
> router is to set up a temporary jig over the dash that prevents the
> router from going beyond the hole.
>
> Finally, cutting the glove box hole. This is done with the jig saw
> and
> preferrably a jig. The glove box door will be the piece you cut out
> of
> the dash, so this job must be done VERY carefully. Probably the most
> delicate part of the project since there is not trim strip and your
> accuracy will determine what you get. Cut the door out with the jig
> saw
> blade slightly angled so the door will open easily and seat well.
>
> Then you brush it off, step back, and VOILA! A nice pretty new exotic
> custom dashboard! To finish it off you can either lacquer it or oil
> and
> beeswax. DO NOT use polyurethane varnish because those are not too
> good
> for UV resistance.
>
> Conclusion - Building your own dash is a very nice woodworking project
> and adds a touch of class to your car that can not be obtained any
> other
> way, but it is not for everybody. It requires either a good full day
> of
> work in a fairly well equipped wood shop, or several days of spare
> time
> in a good shop, or a lot of tedious careful hand work in a poorly
> equipped shop. If you like wood work and have the tools, the job is
> fun
> and very rewarding. If you want a wood-grained dash but do not want
> to
> build your own, the ones from CS are nice and I certainly would not
> build one for someone else for less than they charge. The
> commercially
> available dashes are usually marine plywood with a hardwood vaneer. I
> am very happy with my new custom dash, which is not yet in, but
> everything fits. The last part to fabricate before reinstalling all
> the
> pieces is the brackets to mount the heater controls. These are
> mounted
> on the old one from plastic nubs that stick out the back side. On the
> new one, mounting brackest must be fashioned to screw onto the
> backside.
>
> Now that I am well into the rebuild part of the whole restoration, I
> don't even mind the slower pace that at first. That is the key to an
> enjoyable project - enjoy the process!
>
> May you all enjoy your projects as much as I am mine.
>
> Best wishes,
> Steve Van Ronk
> <glblitnpwr@nidlink.com>
>
x Received: from triumph.cs.utah.edu by alpine.b17a.ingr.com (5.65c/1.921207)
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 22:36:09 -0800
From: patrick wheeler <pwheeler@ix.netcom.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: 1. Wiper motor - 2. Blower motor
TheMole wrote:
> 2. The blower motor makes screaming bearing sounds when first clicked on,
> in addition, it is starting to make 'rustling leaves' noises when in
> operation.
> It too seems week in the amount of and speed of air flow.
>
> any thoughts?
I dealt with this situation this weekend. The blower intake is located directly between the two vents directly
in front of the windscreen. It is a direct verticle drop to a screen and the blower. I crawled under the
dash. Took out the mounting bracket that holds the blower in place, dropped the blower down and promptly got a
face full of thirty years of more of dead lizard skins, mouse leavings, leaves, sticks, branches, and a few
items I could not identify but might have been related to Jimmy Hoffa. This space holds quite a bit of stuff
so you might want to put a drop cloth down unless you want to spend a lot of time with a vacuum cleaner (hint,
hint).
Once it was back in place I was absolutely amazed at the amount of air that could come through the blower and
how much better it sounded. If your blower is ailing it looked to be an easy job to take the motor out and
down to your local shop, but try this simple fix first. This also explained the mysterious fogging problem we
were having. For a good week after a rain the windows would fog with the defroster on, but not when it was
off. I was pulling all my air through about four inches of saturated woody material that was acting as a
sponge.
? Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 890150767.88968-1 ; Tue, 17 Mar 1998 16:06:07 +0000
Tue, 17 Mar 1998 11:15:41 -0500 (EST)
From: EJMW <EJMW@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 11:15:41 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: dash paint - what kind?
Since you have treated the surface with paint stripper I would strongly
suggest cleaning it well with whatever thge stripper manufacturer suggests to
make sure the stripper doesn't strip from underneath. Also I am asuming we
are talking abouth a plastic dash as you mentioned black as the stock color.
First prime the dash with a primer that is compatable with your top coat. I
recomend a good quality sandable primer from your auto paint supplier(you can
sand out drips and dust with 400-600 paper) then a base coat of black or
charcoal grey(almost black looks very nice) and then a top coat in clear coat
automotive paint supplier(most basic colors are available in spray cans)
Also most people make the mistake of not spraying a heavy enough coat when
they use spray cans. Try to spray a good even "wet" coat on what you are
spraying(wet but no puddles or runs) and make sure you follw the manufacturers
dry time reccomendations before recoating or sanding etc. Also lay your dash
out flat horizontally to prevent drips.
If you have any other refinishing questions please ask. It's the one thing I
do know alot about and I'm glad to help except for woodgraining and marbling
techniques, they're secret)
Good luck
Eric
'62 serII
Ù Received: from tibalt.supernet.ab.ca [198.161.21.5] by in7.ibm.net id 890208384.92976-1 ; Wed, 18 Mar 1998 08:06:24 +0000
Wed, 18 Mar 1998 03:17:09 -0500 (EST)
From: EJMW <EJMW@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 03:17:09 EST
To: jerome@supernet.ab.ca
Subject: Re: Re: dash paint - what kind?
>I used Circa 1850 stripper, which claims to need no afterwash or
>neutralizing. It uses methyl alcohol.
>Could I use the primer to fill small chips and shallow scratches? There
>are few.
An alcohol stripper should not leave a residue.
There is a product called laquer putty, you can get it a pep boys, it's
usually red or blue and you can use it to fill small imperfections. Apply it
over primer and under finish coat sand with 400 paper.
Ê Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in2.ibm.net id 918221503.181258-1 ; Fri, 05 Feb 1999 13:31:43 +0000
Fri, 5 Feb 1999 06:30:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 08:28:32 -0500
From: John Slade <edalsj@igs.net>
Organization: Island View Associates
To: robert nanzig <rnanzig@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Seat Belts
I think if you look very carefully, certainly if you have either a S IV
or a S V, you will find that there are pre-installed mounting points in
the middle of each rear wheel well, above the rear bench/seats. They
will be filled with a grey plastic phillips head bolt, 7/16" x 20,
installed from the outside, i.e above and inside the tire. To get to the
inside, once you have located the point and removed the bolt, you need
to put a hole through the interior finishing material. You then use a
7/16" x 20 threaded bolt to mount your seat belt end on the inside of
the car.
On my S III, with which I survived a head on with a hydro pole at 50
mph, I used a different arrangement. I explained it this way in a
previous message tp Rob Wiseman:-
< I had installed the three point belts out of a 1969 Alpine fastback.
The
lower two points used the normal points for the Alpine standard belt,
but I had installed the upper point in an unusual location....it was on
the rear deck (bodywork), about half way round the bend between the
passenger compartment and the trunk opening, at a point where I was able
to insert a reinforcing plate underneath the body-work (access through
the trunk...but in a non-GT car you can get access from the front by
reaching underneath the soft top). This point was also chosen to just
fit inside the hard top when fitted, so that the belts could be used
anytime. This point gives an almost horizontal lead on the upper part of
the belt. Since my car was a GT, I did not have the problem of working
around the soft top. However, I have put the same securing points (both
sides) into the S IV which I am working on, and although it will be
mostly GT, I am fitting the soft top paraphenalia. I believe that I can
find a solution for interference with the soft top, but have not yet
actually proven it. If I can't find a solution, whenever I put up the
soft top, I will move the upper belt location to the normal point on the
inside of the rear wheel well. Since my belts are from a Sunbeam, it is
a simple matter of slipping it off one mounting point and on to another.
>
Hope this helps.
John Slade
Manotick, ON
Ð Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in1.ibm.net id 918849432.107276-1 ; Fri, 12 Feb 1999 19:57:12 +0000
Fri, 12 Feb 1999 12:52:46 -0700 (MST)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Bill & Denise Harben" <harben@jps.net>,
"Alpine Mailing List" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Super Glue
Date: Wed, 12 Feb 1992 11:46:49 -0800
charset="iso-8859-1"
I have found that super weatherstrip adhesive holds the best over a long
period of time. It is imperative that both surfaces are perfectly clean and
that the glue won't pull off whatever coating (like paint) is underneath it.
The adhesive I am talking about is made by Permatex and is tiem # 80638 or
part # 80b. I use acid brushes to apply and throw away brush after each use.
Coat both sides and allow to dry..then apply a quick coat on one side
allowing to get almost dry (very tacky) and press the pieces together. I
used this over 5 years ago on HERBEAM and nothing that was prepared properly
is coming apart. If sticking vinyl to metal I advise bare metal..the glue
adheres very well to bare metal (as rootes did) and you can paint any areas
still exposed after gluing. For large areas spray contact cement will hold
most applications and for restoring floors sound deadening I use roofing
paper and plastic roof cement. Ends up just like original and waterproof
too.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & Denise Harben <harben@jps.net>
To: Alpine Mailing List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, February 12, 1999 11:29 AM
Subject: Super Glue
>I am reupholstering my Series V and looking for the mother of all
>glues. Any suggestions?
>
>I don't want to have to do this for the third time.
>
>Bill Harben
>Auburn CA
>
>
‰
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Thu, 4 Mar 1999 10:02:51 -0700 (MST)
From: "Jay Laifman" <Jay_Laifman@countrywide.com>
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 08:32:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Footrest
Tim writes:
>While yanking the carpet out today I noticed what appears to be a footrest
>on the passenger side under the dash. I figure it's so the passengers
foot
>isn't right on the other side of the firewall. Is this a correct item?
If
>so, how is it supposed to be mounted? It was just resting there stuck to
>the carpet.
Yes, it is a foot rest. If you try to sit in the passenger seat without
it, you will see that the firewall is a bit too far away for you to rest
your feet comfortably (or at least mine from my 5'10" height). The foot
rest seems to be just the right amount. I guess you can slide the seat
forward, but it would be off balance from the driver's seat (which has the
pedals in front of the fire wall).
Right now, I cannot remember exacly how it attaches. If memory serves me
correctly, on the bottom, there were two little plates that screwed in to
the floor which hooked over the bottom lip of the foot rest (if rust has
not eaten them away). On the top of the back of the foot rest are two
little "feet" with rubber bumpers which rests up against the fire wall. I
seem to remember that there may have been something to attach the top or
the side against the kick panel. But, I do not remember for sure.
I did find that when I reinstalled my new carpet and my new kick panels
that the foot rest was too wide to fit in the gap. I guess the carpet on
the tunnel - or the pad underneath replacing the yellow burlap - or the
kick panel, or all three were wider than stock, narrowing the hole. I
ended up "adjusting" the foot rest by bending in one of the sides.
Hope some of that helps.
Jay
D
Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 18:46 +0000 (GMT Standard Time)
From: midshires@cix.co.uk (Andrew Emmerson)
Newsgroups: comp.dcom.telecom
Subject: Re: WE/AT&T Paint & Process
Organization: CIX - Compulink Information eXchange
Approved: [comp.dcom.telecom/9d59c0e4a21f858993ab9e58a5049f8c]
Lines: 39
Path: news1.us.ibm.net!newsfeed.us.ibm.net!ibm.net!news-spur1.maxwell.syr.edu!news.maxwell.syr.edu!newsswitch.lcs.mit.edu!telecom-digest.org!ptownson
Xref: news1.ibm.net comp.dcom.telecom:19730
> I'm new to restoring telephones and am curious about how the folks at
> Western Electric/AT&T used to recondition the finish on the bakelite
> phones.
If they did it like British Telecom did, the answer is in two ways ...
(1) Bulk refurbishing (in the Post Office Factory at Cwmcarn, South Wales)
was done with a rapidly rotating brush on a bench. The operator shoved a
piece of 'soap' (actually a kind of pumice stone, possibly what is called
soapstone) into the brush, then held the piece of plastic against the
revolving brush (which now contained a fine powder off the 'soap'). Only
light pressure was required and a skilled operator could achieve a superb
lustre on the plastic. I witnessed this myself and had to admire the skill
of these girls.
(2) One-off refurbishment was done using 'Paste, Polishing No. 5' and a
hard cloth. This paste came in a tube looking like a toothpaste tube and
was an oily, yellow paste containing a mild abrasive and some waxy
substance that gave a superb lustre when buffed up afterwards. You rubbed
the bakelite with the paste and cloth; the polish would go dark as it
absorbed dirt. Take it off with the hard cloth, then buff up with a soft
cloth or duster.
This gives superb results, far better than using a liquid polish (such as
Brasso) or automotive chrome cleaning paste (Solvol Autosol and the like).
Fortunately Paste, Polishing No. 5 is still made by the original
manufacturer and is sold by the publisher of a vintage wireless magazine
as 'Baykobrite' (vintage wireless enthusiasts use it for cleaning bakelite
radio cases). You can also buy it in bulk (minimum order one carton of 12
tubes) from the manufacturer. A tube sells retail for around UKP2.00
(=US$3.20).
E-mail me for contact address details.
Andrew Emmerson, Telecomms Heritage Group.
" Received: from disco.imag.net [204.244.225.25] by in4.ibm.net id 920626165.93504-1 ; Fri, 05 Mar 1999 09:29:25 +0000
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 02:27:50 -0700 (MST)
From: Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu (Christopher Albers)
To: rnanzig@webtv.net
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 00:28:00 -0800
Subject: Re: tonneau installation
Organization: Biola University
rnanzig@webtv.net writes:
>I have a Robbins Top tonneau on which I need to install the snaps. Any
>tips on how to proceed so I will get a nice fit, and tips on attaching
>the snaps? The studs are still on the car from a previous tonneau.
>Rob Nanzig
>67SV
First, if there are guide marks (there were tiny holes on mine) on the
cover DO NOT FOLLOW THEM. I made the mistake of following the marks on
mine and it didn't fit. Thank God for Rick, who replaced the cover at
no charge even though the thing had been sitting in a box in my garage
customer).
Mount the snaps from the inside out. That is, mount the front two
center snaps first, then the rear and work your way out to the edges.
To mount the snaps, after you have located where you want it, take the
piece with the prongs on it and make an impression in the cover. I
then took an exacto knife an cut small slits where the impressions were
(be very careful doing this). Then simply punch or cut out the center
hole. You can then mount the "Lift The Dot" snap to the cover.
Christopher
- Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in6.ibm.net id 928175233.326502-1 ; Mon, 31 May 1999 18:27:13 +0000
Mon, 31 May 1999 12:27:31 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:54:29 +0000
From: Roger Gibbs <rgibbs@pacbell.net>
To: Christopher Albers <Christopher.Albers@bubbs.biola.edu>
Subject: Re: Thanks & advice, please
Christopher ,
I asked this question at rec.crafts.metalworking which can be an excellent source of
information. Following my words below I have attached the better posts. I post this to
the general Alpine list because others might find it interesting.
My opinions are :
1. The events leading up to the cam lobe destruction are sufficiently clouded as to
preclude finding THE cause of the problem. Some potential causes:
1a. Not hardening the lifter. Although most (almost all) people believe that hardened
lifters are beneficial, non hardened chilled cast iron lifters ought to be sufficient to
provide a reasonable service life. When properly prepared even non hardened lifters are
work-hardened in use.
1b. Improper break-in. Always a potential, although it sounds like you followed the
proper procedure.
1c. Lack of oil. The low oil pressure may have contributed to, or caused, a flaw
(galling) of the lifter face which lead to the failure. In any case in will be difficult
to disprove this.
1d. Bent pushrods. There are very high forces at the cam/lifter interface. The events
that lead to the pushrods being bent may have lead to a burr being raised on the lifter
face. Again impossible to know now.
Chris, I hope this is of help to you. I feel for you.
-Roger
Following are some of the posts that this group and Christopher might find interesting
and useful. One of the posts is replying to someone who suggested that spinning an
engine to prime the oil system is a bad thing and one should always prime the oil system
my some other means prior to first startup. One post that I did not included noted that
breaking in a cam/lifter is a bit of an art/science and not to be too surpised if this
process sometimes fails.
..................
Presuming that the engine is a British Leyland, Ford pushrod, etc., the lifters are in
fact
cast iron. Most people use "chilled" cast iron lifters, and the face is hardened. I've
never had them reground, but the engines I build have new parts easily available. If I
was
getting them reground I have them ground by the cam grinder.
Lifters have a slight radius ground on them. This causes the lifter to rotate as it
works.
The break-in procedure is to run the engine at 2000 - 2500 rpm for about 20 minutes
before
you let it idle. This allows the cam - which is harder than the lifter face - to wear in
with the lifter and from then on the pair are a matched set. I've often replaced lifters
on
an existing cam, but I've never used lifters with a different cam lobe than they were
originally run with.
If your initial start up bent some pushrods, then something cause the valve to stick or
bind, or hit a piston, or whatever. This will definitely cause a high shock load on the
cam
lobe, and I wouldn't be surprised if that's what caused the first problem. But wiping
off
cam lobes is probably the biggest risk of failure when starting a new engine, and many
builders have arcane rituals that they perform to exorcise the demons!
The best way to get oil pressure, as stated by someone, is to spin up the oil pump if the
engine allows that, or to externally pressurise the system if not. But I've started my
share of engines by spinning them up on the starter motor and as long as you get pressure
fairly quickly you're ok. I've certainly never damaged an engine by doing this.
Cheers, Brian
................................
For some reason I can't see the original post to this thread. However, the
theory and practice behind cam follower design and break in procedures is as
follows.
Pushrod engine type followers have a radius of about 1 metre ground on the
running face. They are also offset from the centreline of the cam lobe by
between 1 and 2 mm. The cam lobe is ground at an angle of around 3 thou per
inch to ensure initial contact towards the side of the follower. The
combination of angle, radius and offset ensures that the follower rotates to
even up wear over the entire running surface. If a follower stops rotating it
wears out in very short order.
The break in procedure is not just to "match" the follower to the cam lobe as
is commonly thought. It is also to work harden the surfaces for which cast iron
is an excellent material. The high point loadings rapidly compress the surface
skin of the lobe and follower and create a hardened skin which then resists
wear. All cam systems wear at a given rate during their service life and the
rate of wear depends on lubrication, material hardeness, regularity of surface
finish and other factors. The aim is to reach a rate of wear at which the
freshly exposed metal work hardens quick enough to resist further wear. If the
follower stops rotating or the lubrication boundary fails then wear takes place
faster than hardening takes place leading to catastrophic failure.
Modern overhead cam engines running on bucket followers use hardened steel as
the bucket material and these are ground flat not radiused although there is
still an offset to ensure rotation.
Break in procedure is to coat the running surfaces with molybdenum disulphide
lube and then run at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes. Low speeds create
high point loadings and high speeds create rapid wear rates. Intermediate
engine speeds allow work hardening to take place without excessive point stress
on the parts.
99% of cam failures are due to inadequate break in procedures.
Dave Baker at Puma Race Engines (London - England) - specialist cylinder head
work, flow development and engine blueprinting. Web page at
http://members.aol.com/pumaracing/index.htm
.......
Checking Taylor, "The Internal Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice" --
"Flat followers acting directly on the cam surface are the simplest and
cheapest kind and have the advantage of being free to rotate in their guides.
Actually the "flat" surfaces are often slightly curved so as to allow for any
slight misalignment with the cam surface. A disadvantage of flat followers is
that pressures between cam and follower are limited to those at which the
sliding surfaces show a satisfactory freedom from wear. This consideration
places limits on spring loads lower than for roller followers. As mentioned in
Chapter 9, a good material for these parts is a special chilled cast iron.
Where cam loading is high, as in engines that run for long periods at high
piston speeds, roller followers made of surface-hardened steel and operating on
surface-hardened cams are called for. Roller followers are also advisable where
very long engine life is required, as in large marine and stationary engines."
• Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in3.ibm.net id 931123032.95688-1 ; Sun, 04 Jul 1999 21:17:12 +0000
Sun, 4 Jul 1999 15:15:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: FRITZWICH@aol.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 17:13:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Seat Bolts
To: pwheeler@ix.netcom.com, tigers@autox.team.net, alpines@autox.team.net
Patrick, T&A Listers...
Here's a Whizzz-Tip I picked several years ago for replacing the seat
retainer bolts in our cars. I don't remember where the tip originated but
it had something to do with the quick removal of aircraft seats.
Go down to your local hardware store and find the Clevis Pin Department. Buy
4 of the appropriate length and diameter to fit (I have the measurements but
I'm not near my cars now). The clevis pin has several holes along its shank
and a flat head on one end like a nail. I attached a split key ring in the
hole nearest the flat head to make a "pull". Push the clevis pin through the
floor frame base and the hole on the seat frame. Insert a hitch pin through
one of the holes on the clevis pin to secure it in place.
When the seats need to be removed. Pull the hitch pins, then the clevis
pins. The next think you know is your seat is out of the car. Works like a
charm.
Happy 4th from WhizzzBANG Motors
...Rich
b Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in6.ibm.net id 931144739.96780-1 ; Mon, 05 Jul 1999 03:18:59 +0000
Sun, 4 Jul 1999 21:17:58 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Sun, 04 Jul 1999 20:22:58 -0700
From: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
To: FRITZWICH@aol.com
Subject: Re: Seat Bolts
FRITZWICH@aol.com wrote:
> Patrick, T&A Listers...
> Here's a Whizzz-Tip I picked several years ago for replacing the seat
> retainer bolts in our cars. I don't remember where the tip originated but
> it had something to do with the quick removal of aircraft seats.
> Go down to your local hardware store and find the Clevis Pin Department. Buy
> 4 of the appropriate length and diameter to fit (I have the measurements but
> I'm not near my cars now). The clevis pin has several holes along its shank
> and a flat head on one end like a nail. I attached a split key ring in the
> hole nearest the flat head to make a "pull". Push the clevis pin through the
> floor frame base and the hole on the seat frame. Insert a hitch pin through
> one of the holes on the clevis pin to secure it in place.
> When the seats need to be removed. Pull the hitch pins, then the clevis
> pins. The next think you know is your seat is out of the car. Works like a
> charm.
> Happy 4th from WhizzzBANG Motors
> ...Rich
The actual aircraft quick-release pins I used come with a pull ring attached to
a end piece with a button in the center. Depressing the button retracts two
ball detents at the other end. You simply depress the button and stick the pin
thru the seats and brackets. When it comes out the other side, let go of the
button. The balls come out and prevent removal. Pull on the ring, with the end
button depressed (one hand operation) and pull it out. Do same to other side
and the seat is out. These are cheap aircraft surplus, and dear at your boat
store, but really do a fine one-hand operation.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/
, Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in1.ibm.net id 933559697.61402-1 ; Mon, 02 Aug 1999 02:08:17 +0000
Sun, 1 Aug 1999 20:07:53 -0600 (MDT)
From: CANISDOG@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 22:07:20 EDT
Subject: Little Gadgets
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Pinemasters,
As I was taking the last few body plugs and screws out of the series 3
getting ready for the "blast" I found something I didn't know was there.
A little swinging "hook" mounted just behind the clutch peddle able to swing
out and hook the peddle in the depressed position.
What was behind this little idea? Anybody else have the "hook" buried behind
the carpet?
Paul
Colorado
a Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 933560437.39940-1 ; Mon, 02 Aug 1999 02:20:37 +0000
Sun, 1 Aug 1999 20:20:08 -0600 (MDT)
From: Alpdavegre@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 1999 22:19:38 EDT
Subject: Re: Little Gadgets
To: CANISDOG@aol.com, Alpines@autox.team.net
Paul,
This was to keep the clutch disk from sticking to the flywheel in those humid
damp climates, like England when you store the car over the winter.
Dave Green
Ø Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in7.ibm.net id 934843772.94168-1 ; Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:49:32 +0000
Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:32:27 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 11:25:12 -0400
From: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
Organization: Journey's End Marina/O'Hara Corp.
To: tc123@att.net
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Refinishing
Actually, spar varnish is not the best choice although it does provide good UV
protection. A true spar varnish contains more tung oil than most varnishes and
as a consequence is quite soft and more easily damaged. There are a wide
variety of marine varnishes and urethanes that would be more durable and
provide good UV protection (except interior satin or rubbed effect finishes).
Interlux Clipper Clear Urethane would be a good choice.
Scott Donnelly
SV
tc123@att.net wrote:
> Tom spar varnish is made for the rigors of outdoors and
> the ocean. In time it will also weather but most likely
> outlast the Alpine. Good luck. T.C.
> > Hi T.C.,
> >
> > The old varnish on the wheel is lifting, and yellowing. Will "marine spar
> > varnish" not yellow with age?
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > <<Tom I made a dash for my SI from burl redwood and was
> > suggested not to use polyeurathane because the lack of
> > uv protection. I finally finished it in a good marine
> > spar varnish. It sure takes a long time between coats
> > but I am very pleased with the results. T.C.>>
ß Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 934983814.92074-1 ; Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:43:34 +0000
Wed, 18 Aug 1999 07:35:35 -0600 (MDT)
From: "herbeam" <herbeam@cari.net>
To: "Scott Donnelly" <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>,
"Alpine folks" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: seat backing sheet material
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:35:13 -0700
charset="iso-8859-1"
I have used abs plastic sheeting with great success...the rivets hold
(w/small washers) its forgiving (returns to original shape after
molestation), and its waterproof (ever leave the top down and it rained ??)
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
To: Alpine folks <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 5:20 AM
Subject: seat backing sheet material
> Any suggestions on what to use for seat backing (instead of cardboard)?
> Scott Donnelly
> SV
>
>
] Received: from superman.imag.net [207.200.148.6] by in4.ibm.net id 934980582.154208-1 ; Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:49:42 +0000
Wed, 18 Aug 1999 06:46:48 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:39:39 -0400
From: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
Organization: Journey's End Marina/O'Hara Corp.
To: Alpine folks <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: seat diaphram installation
If anyone is rebuilding their seats, here's a suggestion on how to
install new diaphrams:
Install hooks in diaphram first (note orientation)
Push hooks into one side of seat rail
Put a loop of string over hook on opposite side
Clamp on to string with Vice Grips
Grunt and pull like hell until the hook slips into hole on opposite
frame rail
Cut and remove strings and repeat on front and rear rails
The loop of string was the key to successfully installing the diaphrams
without scaring up the newly stripped and painted seat frames.
Scott Donnelly
SV
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Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:50:42 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:35:40 -0500
From: Brent kasl <kasl100@navix.net>
To: Scott Donnelly <oharajem@free.midcoast.com>
Subject: Re: dash pad installation
I just finished my dashpad installation last Sunday. Do not use the spray
adhesive because of the potential heat problem. I went to the shop that does
my upholstery work and explained to him what I was trying to accomplish and
he gave me a small container of contact adhesive that came from a 5 gallon
bucket they use on all of their work. It of course is applied with air
pressure. I positioned the pad over and over again to make sure their was
the proper fit all around and had to do some minor trimming. I then applied
the adhesive, heavily, to both surfaces with a foam applicator about 3" wide
to cover large areas. I then put the pad on straight down with no
repositioning. Make sure you have sanded the metal with 400-600 grit paper
and clean with solvent before application for a smooth clean finish. It
looks great. Apply pressure all around but it will set up immediately. The
most important part is to check and double check the fit before gluing. Hope
this helps. Brent Kasl
Scott Donnelly wrote:
> Nearly ready to install a new upper dash pad and I am wondering about
> adhesives. With contact cement, I am worried that I won't get it spot on
> and tear off the foam backing if I reposition it. I am thinking of using
> welding rod stuck through defrost vent screw holes in the top of the
> dash as guides to lower the dash pad on. I also wonder if it might be
> better to use a non-contact (slower curing) adhesive/sealant like 3M 101
> or 4200. Any ideas?
> Scott Donnelly
> SV
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Wed, 15 Sep 1999 19:08:38 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:05:41 -0700
From: steve sage <rootes@ix.netcom.com>
To: Tigers List <tigers@autox.team.net>, Alpines List <alpines@autox.team.net>
Subject: Getting Ready For The Deluge
Well, maybe not the deluge but it probably will rain here a couple of
times this coming winter. Here's what I finally figured out to get my
doors to properly channel water out the bottom. Hope this is of some
help to other listers who get water in their passenger compartments.
As I earlier mentioned, after removing the door panels, I cleaned out
all the junk at the bottom of the insides of the doors and made sure the
three drain holes are clear. I tightened all the loose screws holding
the winder mechanisms to the door. I added some weather strip to the
door behind the long "door lock bar" to stop some rattling that was
going on. Biggest problem was replacing those darn plastic/poly sheets
inside the doors (that had deteriorated completely) that channel the
water that gets in down to the bottom without getting on the hardware
and the door panels. I got a sheet of 6 mil poly sheeting from a
hardware store. I cut two sheets (one for each door) 25" x 14" (approx).
This is as close (the 14") as I could figure the originals were. I could
not see that these sheets were glued or attached at the bottom anywhere
so I've decided to just have them hang down in the doors, loose at the
bottom. They're going to get "crunched" up every time the windows are
opened anyway (wether glued at the bottom or not) , and this is
obviously why these sheets "go away" after a few years.
The biggest problem was how to attach the plastic sheets. Original
factory install seems to be that they layed the top of the sheets in the
door window channels and then installed the windows over them. As I
didn't want to attempt to remove the windows to do the same, I at first
tried clear silicone glue spread on the window channel (and then
pressing the plastic on to the glue). No good as the clear silicone
didn't stick to the plastic. I tried black seal, which worked much
better but still not good enough. It was apparent that repeated window
winding would pull this off. Staring and swearing at the doors finally
created the obvious idea: Really sticky tape. If I had thought of this
several hours previously, I'd be much happier now! Anyway, I messed
about and was finally able to tape the plastic sheets to the window
channels and numerous windings up and down shows this will hold.
I additionally taped over the two remaining big holes in the doors
(where the wining mechanisms are and the smaller half circle at the
front of the doors) to prevent any water exiting there, and finally
taped over a couple more larger sheets of plastic on the driver's door
(where it's now under the door panel) to insulate further against door
rattles I haven't been able to solve otherwise. It now seems that the
only way water that gets in the doors from above can get out will be as
our Lord (Rootes) intended, out the drain holes.
I've also installed a weather strip piece (non stock) on the car body
around the door openings so water can't splash up from the road and into
the car (this piece starts where lots of us can sit in the car and see
light through that corner at the front bottom of the doors, and runs
back and up the side of the door opening). I did this as my new, stock
door weather strip does not make contact with the body when the doors
are closed.
I also re-caulked around the driver's side air intake (under the dash)
and the windscreen bolts. I didn't do the driver's air vent as I
couldn't really reach it behind the glove box and wiper motor.
I'm sure I'll find other areas to repair, and thanks for all the tips
the list suppled earlier.
Steve Sage
'67 Series V
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